Combines how do I remove variable speed drive nutIJ

A simple way is to open your cylinder grease door and jamb a 2x4 between the rotor and concave...

Hello Winchester,

Removed the same sheaves from my R50 last year. Tough job!!! Made a big heavy puller and heated the sheaves near the shaft. Had them almost red hot before they'd move. Took two of us all afternoon. Good luck.

3_4" or 1" impact wrench would be my first choice to get that nut off and to keep from screwing them dowels up. Im pretty sure a 3_4 is enough, have only had the n7 for a year now and am going by memory. If the 3_4" won't the 1" will. I think its better make sure the puller is lots enough for the job rather than heating the p.i.s.s (do we really need to censor that word)out of it and using a dinky puller. One guy I know had to remove a big pulley and was using a puller that was way to small and had the hole end of the shaft and id of the pulley red, and bent the shaft from the sidways pull of the threaded puller. You'l be better off with your hydraulic puller because it won't put that sideways torque on the shaft. Never know might come off just like that. Protect those threads too.

When you finally get it apart make sure you replace all o-rings along with pins and bushings. Thats a bearcat of a job you dont want to be doing again next year. Tom in MN

I got the parts off, and didn't use heat!

Removing that variable speed assembly can be a bear. Have done that a few times, but something

Hello Silverluv, Thanks for the advice. I'll preassemble it on the bench to ensure pin alignment. All splines look o.k. The 4 pins have about .025 wear, so they and the spacers may as well be replaced. My serviceman said that an indicator for replacement was around .040 maximum wear or whenever the variable speed assembly was slow to respond to changes. He also recommended an anti-sieze coating on the main spline in order to make "life easier" for future removal.