Combines Hugger corn head not feeding 12 30

We also have a 1230 head and this has allways been a problem. There is a plate they make to put in the throat like you asked about, I have that installed and I don't really think it made that much difference. This year I welding on some angle iron and attached rubber flaps to the angle iron (just like John Deeres) This did help some but also had the affect of throwing some ears out the front where I had one flap lined up between the rows. I had attached four flaps so I just removed the one that caused the problem. I still haven't found any answer to the build up of material in front of the feeder house. It looks to me like I may have to try a corn reel. Just my 2 cents worth. Kurt

Can you install some half links in your feeder chain and move the front drum forward about an inch or soIJ This takes care of the problem on a Red combine.

Thats exactly what I did a couple of years ago and it improved corn feeding so the head no longer plugs. I dont recall if I added 1 half link or removed a half link and added a regular link. Remember to check interference when running a bean head. I had to notch the flighting a wee bit so the feed chain bars wouldnt hit it.

Have new Hugger 12 row 22 inch. Same problems and I posted below what I did, but it was not a perfect solution. In trashy varieties at powder dry conditions there is a problem. I think a total redesign of the cross auger and its closeness to the feeder chain drum is in order. The cross auger is the same diameter they used on 4 row heads, and needs to be bigger for 12 rows. The hood must be standard on all heads, and stiff belt flaps need to be standard. These 12 row heads are sent out with the flightings meeting left of center of the feeder house with a 4 inch gap of no flighting, like the small heads that may see use on the R52s. How stupid! Our head was no more field ready than the Base combines are with gobs of reverse bars, etc. And then we waste time trying to get it improved (or creeping through the field wasting hours on the combine) while the best fall weather slips by! Patience has it's limits. And I need to get an 8 row 30 inch for next fall. If I get it in time to modify the cross auger next summer, I will probably get another Hugger. Torch and Welder on new machine. Don't like the sound of that but must be done. Any other IdeasIJ

add 2 offset links per chain and extend arms on front drum out by 2 holes. may need arm n713575164. change rh sheave on counter shaft to part n71374737 and belt then needed is 71368809. this worked on a 830 we had problems with. the floor riser mentioned is machinery part n71371088. have had no experience with floor riser. the sheave mentioned above is used with ltm and speeds raddle chain by 10%. you could try leaving the raddle speed on small grain setting to see in bunching problem goes away but you could create a overfeed problem at cylinder.

I can't seem to find what you did to fix. I highly recommend floor filler and extending flighting to intersect a line around tube. I don't know about the units with bearing support toward the center for we don't have enough corn around hear to justify the biggest head. If the above trick doesn't work completely then you should install paddles just like they are installed on the distrubution augers of the old N series. Do not have paddle any higher than flighting and be sure there is room for a cob between it and floor. With a couple paddles fastened like that it should unload auger well and prevent throwing cobs forward. I hope you catch what I mean about fastening like paddles on old distribution augers for that will give more of a sweeping action and prevent throwing. Good luck guys.

Ram Rod What did you think of the new plastic snouts on your new headIJ I have a new 12-22 this year and much prefer the GVl plastic that was on the old one. The GVl was quite a bit longer so that when the snout was 2" off the ground the gathering chains were 6" off the ground. The new one is so short that when it is on the ground the gathering chain is on the ground. Yes you can adjust it differntly, but then the angle is so steep that when you drop the head they will spear right into the ground. They are too narrow also. looks like they used a "one size fits all" The ones on mine could be used on a 20" head also. The front gathering chain sprocket is right out in the open. The old GVl was much better all the way around and it was made at litchfield MN. The new stuff comes from Brazil.

Ron, I agree with all your comments about the head and plastic. I thought too that they were intended for 20" rows also, but worked ok. I have the tilt kit that sets the head even more flat to the ground, and it looks almost wierd to see it from the cab. It really puts stalks down to the ground. I had a little down corn but did a good job with the stubby snouts setting it upright to go through. Plastic slides on stalks so well that I thought the short snoots were ok.

What is the tilt kitIJ I have lateral tilt and then there is the adjustment at the front of the feeder house for tilting the header, where is your tilt kit and how does it work. Yes plastic works well in down corn, but the GVl plastic worked even better because it was longer and guided it in better. One other thing, On several ocasions I hit the lateral tilt button when unloading on the go as I reached to shut off the auger. Thats the only complaint I have about the new control handle. I'm starting to like the new electronic system and all the things it can tell you. Also I ran with just one reverse bar ( not one pair, just one) on the outer end. Three concave filler bars. Had extended cylinder bars. Ran 500 rpm on beans and 250 rpm on corn and did a better job this year on my seed beans than I did last year with the old R72. Power wise I was very satisfied with the new R65 over the old R72. I opted for the 65 over the 75 because of the $20,000 difference. With 305 hp it will do everything as well as my old 300 hp Duetz in the 72 did. And from talking to the cummins rep at farmfest we can program it up another 15 to 30 HP by just hooking up a laptop. Don't think I need to do that though. Visibility of the headers from the new cab is not as good as in the old cab because of the posts, just have to get used to it.

The tilt kit is a panel that bolts to the header at the throat hookup that is thicker at the bottom to change the angle of the header to the ground(flatter pitch to the ground),making it more of a "Hugger". It does make the feed area between the cross auger and the front feeder drum wider by a couple inches, which can make feeding problems potentially worse.