Combines Hyper or new rotorIJ

I have my flat helicals stack in accordance with the drawings on the Hyper Mod page. I have had excellent results with this setup in dry stem beans. Unfortunately with the trend towards green stem beans which makes it easier to harvest because they stand sooooo much better I am running into this rotor rumble problem. From my conversations with Hyper II and my field observations I have come away with these conclusion- The problem is two fold- 1) The design of the P1 bars does not allow for an agressive hold on green material. 2) The flat helicals even when stacked are not aggressive enough to keep a grip on green material. This is especially true when the leading edge wears. Hyper II told me that some have had sucess with turning the heilcals around to get the sharp edge on the "live" side. R.O.M. had sucess with his N7 by widening the surface area of the flat helicals keep the green material from bunching against the cage holes (see recent post). After reading ROM's post it makes sense to me because of where I am having problems with straw building up outside the cage and plugging the cage sweep on the thresher side. The first area was the left hand concave mount where the concave and cage meet, I solved that problem by installing a cage blank in that area. The second area was where the overfeed auger is on the front of the thresher. I solved that problem by putting the overfeed auger back in without the trough, this kept the material agitated enough for the sweep arms to pull the straw away. For me with my P1 with near new chrome bars and chrome channel in the separator the next most cost effective step is to install channel helicals in the thresher. I believe the more agressive channel helicals will overcome the deficiencies of the P1 bars enough to keep the green material moving into the separator end. My original intention was to install a P3 rotor and turn my stacked flat helicals around but that project would have taken more time and $$$. Plus my flat helicals are black iron so it would only be a matter of time before I was back in there putting channel helicals in. Yes, this may be something we would want to address in the Hyper Mod site because green stem beans are here to stay and I am sure other small grain harvesters run into similar problems in wet conditions. Hyperizing is ever-green, correcting old problems and adapting to new issues. I love it! Sorry about the long post but it is fun making the best even better. Pete Hinrichsen

After thinking long and hard,5 minutes (an eternity for someone with ADD) along with re-reading ROM's post below on how he addressed rotor rumble in a P1, I wonder how expensive it would be to have shims made up to sit under the flat helicals extending out on the "live" side to keep the green material from catching on the cage holes. With the reverse bars gone there should be a thin flow of material going through the cage including the thresher area so the extention of the bottom of the "live" side of the flat helical does not need to be much. The problem is by the time one gets these shims made up he may have as much $$$ in the shims as he would with channel helicals. Just trying to keep the cost down on these old P1 machines. I know what my machine is worth to me but on the open market I could never get the value out of it. In the Hyper Mod site adressing the P1 rotor mods is very cost effective especially if one has access to used material such as used flat helicals for shims,used P3 stars and a couple of used seperator forward bars. This is what I consider to be "stage 1". When you start adding channel helicals and a separator grate ("stage 2"),your cost increases dramatically. But........ Contrast this to the price of new iron or newer used iron it still is very cost effective from an efficiency and logevity standpoint. Once again, thinking with my keyboard, Pete Hinrichsen

Pete, those shims cost about nothing to make up. Just some flat 2 or 3 mm thick strip or sheet the right width and if you can't buy the right width then the cut -off wheel only takes a few seconds to cut a strip to size. Each strip is the same length as a helical. Bend the strip until it's curve matches the helical and then place one end of the strip into a vice and use a shifter wrench or some such to twist the strip until it closely matches the helical curve and twist. Mark holes, drill and install under helical. Takes a bit of time and almost no money.

Clarification; Each strip is the same length as a helical section.