Combines hyperizing in edible beans

don't know what you mean by "stock" as far as edible beans go. need optional helical bar kit, all foward bars, extended bars, remove at least every other wire in concave, extra helical above feeder chain, remove distribution auger covers, removing half of the accelerator rolls, and now that we are just thinking about planting beans, maybe in another month, just don't know what to tell ya about a combine that installing the accelerator rolls won't make a great wheat combine out of it. like dan said a few posts ago, that the helicals should have been called tough condition helical bars and gleaner should have forgotten about standard bars.

Well Glr62 mentioned some things that don't apply to P1 systems but principal are the same. If you allready have the stacked or channel helicals you have a good start. All forward bars are good and doubt it very much that hi-low bars will hurt in any way but don't know if it will help in edible beans either. The drier the beans the more important to remove some of the accelerator roll paddles. Slowing clean grain augers and getting clearance between flighting and trough will all help. St. Johns cylinder with rotor sweeps will surely help a bunch in getting very tough straw threw at super slow cylinder speeds. I'm getting very close to producing the rotor sweeps that can be installed on a standard P3 rotor. Only answer I have for the P1 at this point is the St. Johns with sweeps. It will sure be great to get the edible beans when they still have some moisture in them. Good luck in whatever you do.

thanks for the info ,we do take out the rear acc rolls and have a four paddle discharge on our rotor,i was also wondering if slowing down the clean grain elevator would helpIJ

we've tried the slow down thing and the bucket elevator but didn't seem to help as much as other things. probably auger clearance and good flighting helped as much as speed. also add a piece of flighting to unloader auger in the u-joint area to help eliminate the dead space.

Slowing down elevator will most certainly help some of the time. Depending on variety, Brand, moisture, when planted, and what was sprayed on them among other things can all make a difference. N's and early R's ran elevator at a slower speed so the newer you get the faster the elevator. If you have a good yeald and can move right along the elevator speed may be just fine. If you can't take in many bean than auger will run very empty and damage alot of crop at factory speed. Gleaner has slow down kit for some models.

I agree with auger clearance and or condition. If your edible bean is just the right size to get pinched between flighting and trough you can expect a certain amount of damage. If flighting edge is wore rounded than it will compound the pinching affect of bean against trough. Raising auger, triming flighting, or in some cases purchase popcorn auger will correct problem. Keeping in mind that clean grain runs at a fantastic speed to keep up with the capacity of of these newer machines in corn they are running at least twice as fast as needed for edible beans. Gleaner has a double slow down kit the was engineered at dealership in Mandan ND to basically cut clean grain speed in half. I like that system for you can switch back to fast speed quickly. For us in lower yealding corn area we just cut speed by 20% and or 30% with different pulleys on some machines and leave like that for all our crops with no problem. I like to slow down as much as possible to help prevent squishing the odd wet one which causes dirt to cake up on things. Also like you say extend unload auger flighting in hopper to come very close to support bushing bracket. I think that would pertain to all swivel auger machines. I've even welded a couple 2" kickers on outer yoke to help stir and keep material moving in that dead area. Of course in a perfect world of beans being just right size and moisture and no dirt ect. we would need to do these things. What fun would that beIJ

Heard of interesting way to handle the accelerator rolls. Remove all paddles on say right rear than move over spot and remove all from front tube and so on. I would say just be sure on R40-50-42-52-62-72-65-75 to leave right rear in place but remove all from front right. Boy that was weard to think of 65-75. Anyway that help dirt from building in against bearing that is set out away from wall. Other machines don't matter so much but would prefer all paddles are pulled from rear tube if not tring the steggered removal trick.