Combines Hyperizing R40 for Wheat

[Pengs5]

Grain Quality will be ok cause you have to be doing alot wrong to get them to crack and then some. Can usually get good threshing when it gets tough. I usually close concave and speed cyl up a bit. Extender bars good ,no reverse bars for me,have the f2 bar made read to go if you need it,i would'nt worry about every other wire out of concave,shock kits good idea,three way chaffer sounds ok. I think that would work ok cause your crops are so different so cant get to specialised in one area. 15ft front does sound a bit small but them sort of yields are pretty good so can always go a bit faster it might be good in the hills. Are you sure its got P3 processor IJ How many hours IJ Check accelerator rollers for wear cause if they are worn to much , too much gets blown over the back no matter what you do. The whole reason they work so good on hillsides or any where for that matter ESSENTIAl ! Some one in the know can tell by looking at them but if you can tinker a pencil between them not good . Pretty sure pencil should ,nt go through or at least get crimpled then ok .It should have the bolt on replacements so easy to do and usually does'nt break the bank if you shop around. Good luck.

 

[Southpaw]

The R40 has 1450 separator hrs and 1800 engine hours. Has a factory reman Deutz Fahr engine that has only a few hundred hours on it. Someone didn't keep the soybean dust blown out and burned the last two pistons from what I'm told. I suspect that the flex head had been replaced or it mostly shelled corn since its in very good condition. I must not have explained properly about the rotor because it does NOT have a P3 style or any type of step rotor for that matter. Thanks for the tip on how to check the accelerator rolls because I couldn't tell how to judge the wear. She has had at least a few rocks run through her judging by a few dents in the cage and one bent rotor bar that will need repair. I'm not sure if it has the hump kit or what type of rock trap if any. Does anyone know if all these machines came standard with a rock trapIJ I haven't been able to find out for sure on this year model. If it doesn't have these is it a lot of trouble to addIJ Thanks again for the help.

 

[silver_blood]

have a 20' 300series flex will fit r40 5000.00 in OK.

 

[Southpaw]

Our ground is so rolling a 20 ft. head would be hard to handle. An 18 ft. would be about max. But the price sounds like a good deal. Thanks for the follow up.

 

[Pengs5]

Keep the air cooling system clean. Alloy fan blades wear so they push less air. You might want to check them against new ones . Hopefully it was just the dust causing the heat and not enough air on them last cylinders. You'll get the rotor and cylinder hyper'd easily when you pull it out some time no harder than a normal touch up but with better results. I'd run with it as is for now. You can unbolt cage doors from the engine side in through the access doors to get at that bent bar. Well the rock trap is standard cause its the concave door . Which works on spring pressure which you can adjust with more or less washers. Hump kit has more of a curve so smaller rocks push harder on it while crop has a better steeper flow in to the cylinder. Suppose to in rocks set it lightly so it pops them out . Which means you will be out more closing the door but better than rocks going through. Alarm comes on in cab when it opens. It should have the door closing handle plus for the less fortunate feeder reverser crank, handle, in the bottom cover_platform bit right side under the big fold up cover.You also use the other end to push the bottom head tapered springs in to get the front off but thats probaly same as l's F's. Not real sure about any other kind of rock door trap someone else might know. Not real hard to get in or out. Have a practice opening it with the handle so you know how to shut it.Needs a pretty good sharp snappy pull down to open it manualy and a good shove to shut it. Operater manual will explain all. Smaller flex heads sometimes in good order cause easier to drive them on the ground then wider ones. It should shave your bean ground whensetup good. Check and replace rotor gear box oil with mobil synthetic gear oil and change it every 150 hours. Enjoy . Keep asking and good luck Peng

 

[Southpaw]

Thanks again for the advice. Will give you an update as I get further into this project. You've been a great deal of help.

 

[Dan]

All R40 and R50s were equiped with P3 rotor and cage systems. They were the first to have P3 systems. They have went threw some changes since day one. First they come with a wider tooth rasp bar which prevented plugging inbetween the rasps in some conditions. Wide rasp works well in most conditions but some prefer narrow rasp over concave and wide on seperator side. Narrow rasp over concave may be better for the small seed and hard to knock out crops. later on the P3s they were available with high wide wire concave and high wide wire seperator grate. Extended cylinder bars became an option and then standard. Gleaner has never had a step cylinder for these machines but some guys have made up half height bars for as much as half the positions on seperator side. There may be someone making a cylinder for this small P3 system that has the cylinder bars steggered in a step pattern. As for rock portection the standard flat door will give some portection. The hump fastened to flat rock door will give better portection and improve feed in my opinion. You may need to drill a couple holes in door to fasten hump to it on a '89 machine (the small P3 door may only have 4 holes and you need 6 to fasten hump). The best rock portection would be a sump. Sump is created by kit that locks rock door about half way open. You may need to look under R42-52 book for number for sump kit. Sump kit can give problem with rear feed in some conditions so we have come up with a way to support crop going over sump but yet the rocks get pushed into sump. Sump must be emptied daily even if no rocks (just open and close door to empty sump). Door opens and closes just like when sump was not installed. Good luck.

 

[Southpaw]

Thanks for the information on the sump kit and how to install it. Your advice and others on this site have been a great deal of help. I will update you on our progress and thanks again for the valuable information.