Combines Impeller Question

What type of header are you runningIJ Do you have the smooth feeder chain or the serratedIJ

I'm running a 22.5' 1020, smooth feeder chain. I put the feeder drum in the lowest position too.

The impeller wear pads are a bolt on pad that extends past the impeller itself. When they are worn down even with the actual impeller it is time to change them. Do you have a rock trapIJ If so there is a beater above it that has an adjustable edge on each of the four blades. You may want to check how they are set.

We had the same problems last year and found out that the rockbeater was turning to fast and not letting the material go through. So we changed the sprocket size. I can't remember off hand how many tooth sprocket we're running right now but I can go take a look tommorrow and let you know. I'm not totally sure that this is the problem with yours or not but it ellimanated our backfeeding 100%. hope this helps Brad NC. IN.

I have had same problem once in a while. Sometimes I will plug the feeder all together wondered if the rock trap was restricting. I did run a smaller (faster) sprocket in beans and wheat, 32 tooth. Maybe that was problem all along. I should just leave the 40 tooth standard on. ThinkIJ

I put new wear bars on the impellers before harvest. The combine doesn't have a rock trap, just the feeder drum that is suppose to stop rocks. The Case mechanic told me to put the drum in the lowest position to help the problem and that may have helped a little. The problem seems to be at the top of the feeder, for some reason straw does not go from the feeder to the rotor as well as I think it should and the only thing I could think of was maybe the impellers weren't pulling it in as they should. I don't want to replace them if not needed since they are over $300, but don't know how to tell if they need replacing. Thanks for the replies.

It seems like our 1020 header has a lot tougher time feeding wheat than the 1010. I notice that when it gets tough the wheat wraps around the auger much quicker and you have to slow down. When I first read your message, I wondered if the material was simply wrapping around the header auger and not feeding correctly into the feederhouse rather than backfeeding down the top of the chain. I don't know how to tell the difference for sure, but I think it is more likely what is happening.

Farmkid, that might be what is happening. I saw straw flying over the top of the header auger and thought the feeder was back-feeding. That may be why rye grass jams so quickly too. It is only doing this in front of the feeder house, nothing wraps around the auger any place else. Do you know a cure for thisIJ I tried changing the timing on the auger fingers, but that didn't help. Has anyone tried the piece of flighting Case sells that extends the auger flighting about another foot towards the center, pn 1308445C2IJ Thanks for the help.

I think the flight extension is used on the 60 series machines and not on the 80. Did the header come off an 80IJ I've not been around a 60 much, but I bet the extension is worth a try. We've run both the smooth and the serrated feeder chain, but couldn't tell a lot of difference. We don't have rye, but that might feed in better with the serratedIJ

Wilddog,The tighteners for the feederhouse chain push the front roller forward to tighten the chain so keeping your feeder chain near the maximum lenght that still allows the proper tension will keep the roller as close to the auger as possible and will aid in solving this problem.Keeping the feeder chain right on the book specs for tightening helps too. You said you had the front roller locked down for rocks but you also have an adjustment that limits the bottom position.If not all the way down already, lowering this will make the feeder more aggressive.I've had the same experience as you describe and if all the above suggestions still don't cut down on the overthrowing, the only solution that I have found is to take in less straw by cutting higher so the straw pieces are shorter..Good luck