Combines information on R7 looking for low budget updates

[Dan]

I'll try help with what I can here. You might want to close up your rock door in a normal manner if you don't have rocks. You may want to look at helicals to see if they are double stacked or maybe they are channel helicals. R7 is like a very late N7 with a engine compartment that is sized to fit Deutz V8 and or it is like a early R70 with a liquid cooled Allis engine. The R7 Allis engine is rock solid but read alerts topic on fire and there is a note in there on center head bolts. The other thing I'll comment on is the feeder shocks. I have installed shocks on these earlier machines and they will have all the benefits of puting them on the newer machines but these earlier machine didn't have as much trouble with feeder for the straw aproach to cylinder isn't as steep. It is alot harder installing shocks on these machines for you are so limited on room. I would doubt you have a 7" drum in there but that would be good if you did. We have quite a few machines with 7" drum, shocks, and modified drum stops around and they sure work nice. I have offered a kit to a couple of guys for $450 but no takers as of yet. You probablly read that post a little earlier on channel irons under the header auger. They will make a little warp in header auger less bothersome. We don't let a header back out of our lot without installing at least one extra channel iron under auger. Maybe someone else can help you with your other questions. Hope that helped you out. Dan

 

[Meldrum_Farm]

Hello Dan,

 

[Dan]

Hi David, Need not worry about liquid cooling just keep your radiator clean. I would double stack them helicals wheather they are wore or not. Check conversation with Silver Streak from a few days ago on header platform channels. I would never want more than 1_2" warp in auger but may be hard to maintain that over 30' of auger. I would install channels under auger before I got to crazy tring to get less than 1_2" warp out of auger. Remember that complete auger must be the exact same temperature when checking for warp. You'll want to get used to a comfortable speed before you start adjusting to much. To close of concave clearance will take more power and load shoe heavily. To large of clearance could take seeds out the end of rotor. Maybe best for you to open sieve and chaffer some and check bin to see how well you are threshing it out until you get more used to it. I would say three filler bars installed for wheat and open concave to see when you start getting alot of unthreshed heads then close back up a bit. You may be near zero with hard to thresh wheat and over 1_2" for the eazy to thresh. I think you'll get used to watching the bin to see if you are to tight or loose. If you are finding you have to have concave so close you are robbing alot of power or shoe is getting overloaded with chaff you may want to add a filler bar or two and then open concave back up a bit. Maybe the Sunnybrook guys can give you some tips on that extended concave for we just have a couple around here. Don't get nervous for you will get onto setting here quickly and you won't be resetting all day long. In fact I bet you will set it in the yard and not touch it more than once after you get onto it. Hope that helps, David. Dan

 

[Meldrum_Farm]

Hello Dan,

 

[Dan]

David, The filler bars go in threw removeable door under the cylinder gearbox. The same door you take off to grease your cylinder coupling. The filler bars have treaded studs to protrude to underside of concave so you can add a plate and nut to secure. You get at underside of concave threw removeable door in front of the engine. They arn't that bad to put in but it would be nice if it was eazier. I wish there was a rail under concave where you could just push in or pull out the fillers. There was a post a while back where someone had been working on a plan to do that. I can't remember where I seen it but I think he made mention that he was tring to market it to Gleaner. I'd be all for it. On the newer combines where it is much eazier to get at bottom of concave I cut pieces of angle iron to fit up into the cells below the wire. I then drill one 1_4" hole threw middle of filler toward the edge. I then use that filler to mark and drill 1_4" holes toward the bottom of concave cross bars. It is almost a must to fasten fillers from the bottom on the high wide spaced wire concaves. I think with the limited room under your concave it would be hard to install that style. I would suggest to stay with the wider bats for they are a structural part of you 30' reel. For cold starting allways bring throttle back up to full throttle after shuting down and leave it there until you fire her up again. Bring throttle back to idle as soon as she fires up and cleans out. It will normally rev up and clear it self even if you hadn't had the throttle up. I don't like the rev up and clear out deal but that is the way the diesel pump guys have it to get the proper timing for start up. The auto ether aid will work just fine to help start at your temps. Hope this helps. Dan

 

[gaffer]

I will give you the best "generic" setting for our modified concave. For a mod concave with 1" wire spacing, use four to six filler plates. 3_8 " is a good front setting, 1_4 to 1_8 " at the back. Make sure concave is level. If you have the rotor out, this can be done easily with the laser that mounts on the gear box stub shaft. Drop a measuring tape from the beam crossing the processor to the concave to guide you. The laser should be used to check the alignment of the stub shaft with the rotor support bearing. This was probably done if a dealer installed the sunnybrook rotor.Hope this helps, Gerald (gaffer)