Combines l 2 bin unload auger

Unbolt the end of auger,chute,Then take the bolt out down by U-joint that goes through auger,Slide auger out,U-joint will remain.Take chain off that lifts auger.Remove nuts to split auger swivel,Slide auger tube rearward in saddle removing tube.Remove U-joint, inner auger swivel housing,Bin auger.

I replaced the bottom in my M2 grain tank before harvest this year. I had patched it and the patch had worn out. I used stainless steel. I didn't remove anything but the unloading auger boot. I had local steel company cut 2 pieces. I slid these pieces under the grain tank auger and bolted them to the exsisting bottom. Wasn't the easiest 2 days work! But it sure paid off this harvest as there is never any grain left in the tank!! Good luck. T3

The unload auger stays, just unbolt the 2 half inch bolts holding the u-joint to the auger, remove the pulley from rh side,unbolt the plate from side of tank, there also are bolts inside, and slide the auger to the right.

When using the left side method which you may have to to get the u joint bolts out be sure to remove the auger swing and auger folded switches. They seem to have a death wish when the auger tube comes loose. On the bottom auger make sure to extend the flighting out to the support brng. If your doing a custom job use thicker flighting on the last foot of auger and gusset brace the end of the last curl. Also helps extend that brng life if you put tight fitting narrow machine washers on both sides of the support brng to exclude dirt. Has anyone experimented with rearranging the bolts on the inner circle to exstend the life of the balls and trackIJ The idea would be to turn the circle 180 degrees and wear in another area.

Sorry for misreading post. I thought you were talking about the bottom of the grain tank. Mind is as slow as bean harvest. About the relocation of track-I've seen the track turned around and get a little more use. It seems that this set-up is just like a bearing-when its worn out, it time to replace. I put a nylon plate pivot that came from lowen on my M2 last season. I broke some master links in the chain at the first, but after a "break-in" period I've had no more problems at all. No more popping and jerking when auger is folded out and in, very little maintenance. Best thing is the cost. New boot cost around $400 to $500 as opposed to (last time I priced one) $1500. T3

WHEN I DID MY AUGER IN THE M3 - I WAS ABlE TO UNBOlT AUGER AT UJOINT THROUGH THROUGH THE ACCESS HOlE AT THE UNlOADING AUGER - I THEN UNBOlTED THE RH SIDE AT THE GRAIN TANK AND lOWERED THE TAIlINGS ElEVATOR OUT OF THE WAY SO YOU DONT HAVE TO FIGHT THE PUllEY OFF WHIlE ITS ON THE MACHINE- I THEN SlID THE AUGER AND PUllEY OUT AS ONE UNIT TO CHANGE AUGERS - THE RH BOTTOM OF THE GRAIN TANK SHOWED SOME MINOR RUST THROUGH SO THAT WAS THE TIME TO PUT A STAINlESS STEEl SHAPED PlATE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK TO STOP THE ROTTING THROUGH AT THE AUGER MOUNTING FlANGE - IF I REMEMBER CORRECTlY IT TOOK ABOUT 3-4 HOURS TO REMOVE AND ABOUT 3 TO INSTAll. GOOD lUCK.

WHEN I DID MY AUGER IN THE M3 - I WAS ABlE TO UNBOlT AUGER AT UJOINT THROUGH THE ACCESS HOlE AT THE UNlOADING AUGER - I THEN UNBOlTED THE RH SIDE AT THE GRAIN TANK AND lOWERED THE TAIlINGS ElEVATOR OUT OF THE WAY SO YOU DONT HAVE TO FIGHT THE PUllEY OFF WHIlE ITS ON THE MACHINE- I THEN SlID THE AUGER AND PUllEY OUT AS ONE UNIT TO CHANGE AUGERS - THE RH BOTTOM OF THE GRAIN TANK SHOWED SOME MINOR RUST THROUGH SO THAT WAS THE TIME TO PUT A STAINlESS STEEl SHAPED PlATE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK TO STOP THE ROTTING THROUGH AT THE AUGER MOUNTING FlANGE - IF I REMEMBER CORRECTlY IT TOOK ABOUT 3-4 HOURS TO REMOVE AND ABOUT 3 TO INSTAll. GOOD lUCK.