Dan
Guest
Remove one or both channel bars in front of concave. May want to keep the one on the door if you have rocks and replace the other one only if you can't thresh it out. Run as close of cylinder clearance as possible to keep good suction. Speed is the main thing that will crack beans. Cylinder bars in very good condition. Speed up thresher beater as much as you can without cracking beans to prevent it from wraping and plugging. Cylinder drive slow down kit will be needed if beans get to dry on you. Cylinder will only slow up to 410 or so the way it is. Make sure wire concave extention is hanging over thresher raddle and wires are bent down to just clear raddle. Keep raddle chains snuged up. Remove seperator beater and install plastic pipe over the shaft if beater is wrapping. Turn chopper blades or replace to get square edge leeding to keep good suction. If clean grain auger is cracking beans you will need to give it enough clearance so beans will not get pinched between auger and trough. Either trim flighting or raise auger to get clearance. Would be a good idea to make a sprocket to slow up clean grain some if cracking. Extend unloading auger in bottom of tank to within about a quarter inch from bushing support to reduce dead area and a couple of short kickers could be added to outer yoke of universal joint assembly to help stir the dead area. Be sure if you add kickers that no interferance will accure when auger is swung back into the saddle. Close up tins in grain tank as much possible and unload at idle. Perforated panels for shoe can be added and perforated elevator boots are available to let out some dirt. Good luck for them beans can be very easy to harvest and on the other hand can be a nightmare. Sund brand pickups work good for picking bean windrows and they let some dirt out before it gets to header. lots of folks have put spike tooth cylinders in and perforated there headers for them beans. If you no of any spike tooth cylinders around please let me know. Thanks. Dan