Combines low voltage light on l3

Check the main relay by the fuse panel, when on it has a weak or poor connection.

My l2 does the exact same thing and i just do not worry about because i know that it takes a lot of power for all of the lights and for the auger swing. So i think it might just be the nature of the beast. Good luck Brent

I have a M3 that does the same thing. I figured that it was a weak voltage regulator in the alternator. I would be interested in what you found out.

My R42 owners manual says it is not unusual for voltage to drop a point with lights on. I had the problem with my low voltage light coming when I swung the auger also. First I rebuilt alternator but did not help. Put in new console relay and that did the trick. My old relay would get very hot. New one just feels a little warm. Good luck

My R7 did the same thing. The fuse was not blown, but it was corroded were it plugs in. cleaned the connection and its been fine ever since.

Troubleshoot this way. With a good VOM (volt ohm meter) Check your voltage at the alt with everything off, eng running. Should be 13.8 - 14.5 V. Now go to the cab and check the main console relay. It should be within a volt of the alt. Now check the OUTPUT side of the relay. It should be exactly the same. Turn on the lights one switch at a time with the eng at over 1500RPM and check both the in and out side of the relay. IF any volt drop occurs the relay is bad. The big draw of current is the main lights. IF the main switch is going bad it will get hot. This CAN cause your problem as well. The ideal way to power the lights is to add a relay and power it off the input to the console relay, using the light switch only to trigger the added relay. Fuse the main wire of course with fuse or breaker. Also a bad connection will cause added amp draw on a light or ANYWHERE in the system. Feel every wire and switch and if you find any heat source, you have found an amp drain. (lights get hot remember- it is because of resisitance to amp flow) The cab relay will be warm. As they get older they get hotter thus drawing more current. This is a special constant duty relay. One off a Ford truck will not work for example. The other thing to consider is the cab main ground. This is the culprit of many problems. The ground is usually covered with stuff that shouldn't be there and is damp and corroded. Make sure in this area of checkout. Finally go through a detail check of every curcuit to see where the volt drop is occurring, the beeper should not come on over 12 V. Best I can remember 11.8 is the set point. Finally the low volt beeper is powered through the 10 amp aux warning fuse AND is grounded through the same black wire that grounds to the console. Check this ground. The auger swing is powered through the 10 amp swing switch and then is wired through the warning module. A bad connection on either power points can trigger low volt alarm. Sorry for the long post but it take time. As a fellow once told me "I have already told you more than I now know anyway".

I wish to thank everyone who responded to my post. Will start with checking the ground to the cab and the instrument pannel and go on from there. This might have to wait until spring, it's getting too cold outside in northern Iowa to work on things in an unheated shed. Happy holidays to all, lynn.