Combines M2 Variable speed cylinder drive on M2

Seen this plenty of times. Often it was when sliding hub was replaced due to slines next to snap ring failing. Ended up honing the sliding hub to gain a little clearance. I used a .006 to .008 feeler ribbon and honed until it fit between the hubs. Everthing would slide nice when cold but after a little running the hubs would start sticking and everytime you hit a slug the cams would tighten the belt further. This would break idler off the side, flip or break belt, or break the mainshaft. Good luck

looking at the clearance between hub and sheave I am certain that there is at least .006 - .008" clearance. In my case I have not replaced the hub or sheave that would have changed the clearance. Dealer has suggested problem if there is excessive clearance but does not think that this assembly has worn to that extent. Still baffled.

We have found the zerk next to the outer sheave that lubes the hub to the shaft will develope a 'channel' and not lube the hub to shaft properly and when the belt tightens it siezes and will not release. You mentioned snap ring - this usaually breaks the end off the hub - later models had nuts of course. Also check that 73011952 bearing and 71189834 needle brg as it will develope flat spots on the roller _ balls on occassion. Finally check the pivot shaft on the front drive (where the V_S cyl drive is) IF it is bent back toward the back - have seen quite a few - it will cause the belt to break the cords in the back and get longer on the inside and flip. Pretty easy to pull shaft back to the front.

Thanks all for your advice. I have decided to replace both hub and mating half flange along with brgs and seals. The updated hub has the threaded end with the nut. Yes the pivot shaft was bent backwards. I will pull this spindle back into alignment.