Combines Main Drive Clutch Assembly R62

You can resurface once IF there is no warpage. Keep in mind there are TWO clutches on R65-75. Make sure BOTH are pulling. We have found raising the rear drum will really help in prevention of backfeeding. Conditionions really do dictate whether it is better for the rear drum to be up or down.

I have never resurfaced clutches but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt. Very few clutches ever replaced. They can be abused quite bad before that are damaged. I would engage and disingage a couple times then carefully feel inside and outside plate. If one or the other is very hot the harness between the two is broke. If both are equally warm look into brusholder or currant feed to it. Single brusholder feeding both clutch puts a good load on it. If the brushes were making poor connection you will have large voltage drop and likely burn plastic that comutator rings are fastened to. Rings will then go off center so brushes are bouncing all the time. If currant is low to brusholder it could be bad voltage drop threw safty module. Check system voltage at master solinoid in cab and then down at plug for brusholder if you don't find problem in harness between clutches or brusholder itself. I'd say you best not see any more than 1 volt drop from solinoid to brusholder. Tell us what you have as far as feeder shocks, rock portection, helicals, tailings return, ect. and well see what you can do about back feeding. Catch you later.

Hello Dan, I hyperized this R62 about 4 years back with the feeder shock kit, rock hump then also installed the rock trap to prevent rotor damage. Installed the third helical over the top left (from the rear) of the rear feed conveyor inside the cage. Added the extended discharge cylnder bars and also did all of the hyper mods on the 400 rigid series 30 foot header including the channel underneath and the extended flighting in the centre of the auger. This was all purchased from your dealership some time ago. This has a standard tailings return set to return to rotor in small cereal grains. I had a failure of the brush assembly where the thresher drive would not engage at all. Replaced this assembly and the system would engage fine afterwards. It just seems that it doesn't lock up as tight as it should and you can occaisionally hear it slip when a slug goes through or when it is initially engaged. There was no difference between the old brush assembly and the new one as far as the slipping. Do you still think this is an electrical problem or has the clutch surface worn enough to cause it to slip. Without dissassembling it looks like I can see some wear on the clutch itself. Tbran might have a solution by raising the rear feed drum (on the front conveyor I am assuming) to help correct the backfeeding. What do you thinkIJ Thanks for the response

I would try the start and stop seperator a few times to see both clutches are getting equally warm. This will point out if one or the other clutch is not doing its job. Most common problem with dead clutch is wire between the clutches. It will pull with one clutch but it will be dragy to start and will slip under heavier loads. Voltage check at side of combine where brusholder plugs in is normally 11 volts with engine shut off, seperator clutch on, and battery sitting at approx 12.6 volts. You will have approx .5 volt less if checked after brusholder. If you think you need a couple more volts available for clutches you could install relay next to brusholder plug and run heavy currant feed directly from starter. I often thought about doing that if I should ever have trouble with clutches. Amp draw per clutch should be between 4 and 5 amps. So if you put ampmeter in series with feed wire you should see approx 9 amps if both clutches are getting currant. It surely won't hurt to have clutches machined flat and gaps reset. If gap is to large from wear or poor adjustment the straps that hold plates will always be tring very hard to disengage clutches. I think if you can push or pull clutch plate by hand to get contact it is likely close enough. Your back feeding is likely caused by the transition between the two chains. locking rear feed drum higher as tbran suggests surely helps but you will have trouble striking out if you have a bunch of tailing droped onto and under rear chain when machine runs empty. This will cause front feed chain jumping and pluging ect. This was the main reason we had to come up with the shocks. Drum can be down to clean floor when flow is low and float up smoothly as feed increases. Tilting floors down, removing hump just ahead of rear tention drum, installing posifeed tention drum or welding 1" angle irons to drum will basically eliminate any transition problem between front and rear chain. With the condition where poor transition between the chain is encountered it will cause both chains to use excess power. If rear chain slip clutch slips a cog or two the front will surely plug up. Backfeeding between rear chain and cylinder will be harder to notice. Rock sump can cause some problems hear so we will install bracket onto flat rock door so we can fasten some 1_2" wires over sump. Helicals that still dump straw over feed chain can allow straw to ride back out the front with chain. Most of this stuff is only noticeable in the toughest condition but boy is it fun to run when everyone else is sitting in the shed. I better shut this post off or else!!! Take care