Combines main shaft on1995 r62

[keith]

have a 94 r62 please tell me what the up date is. this is n4 on the main shaft for use.it has 1600 hrs on seperator. thanks

 

[NDDan]

I'm sorry about your luck. In my opinion there is nothing at all wrong with design of your mainshaft and drives. Problem comes in when nut just plain wasn't tight enough at one time or another. We have truthfully only had one mainshaft out of any R62 or 72. That was last season and it was because custumer had installed new bearing himself the year before and he did not get nut tight enough to put drive and inner race of bearing into some compression. Now for you to prevent second occurance you need to be sure that side wall of combine did not get damaged and is straight. You need to be sure that bearing holder is square with shaft so side panel that bearing holder bolts to can not be damaged. Bearing must fit freely into bearing holder. Surface of hub that presses against inner race of bearing must not be damaged. If it is damaged it must be replaced or milled straight with washer installed to make up for missing material. I believe your '95 is forgiving on that demention as long as nut is tightened to 450 to 600 foot pounds. What a person realy needs to watch for during reassembly is that nut and or washer on end of shaft does not bottom out against shoulder of shaft before putting assembly into full compression. There is hub material missing from running loose if washer and or nut is bottoming out against shoulder of shaft. A guy should watch for this clearance on any drive retaining bolts, nuts, and washers especially if they have been loose. Anytime securing hardware has been loose enough for bearing to turn on shaft there will surely be iron missing from hub. Ignoring this will surely lead to repeated failures. Best of luck

 

[wheatwacker]

bigger shaft end onvariable speed drive but to update you need 2 new sheaves which are 1200 a piece and bigger bearing our 62 has 1200 sep hrs.

 

[wheatwacker]

thanke ndan your saying the varable speed inner hub should be pressing against the bearing.the reason i ask this is we have had it off a few times and cant remember if there are washers that go between bearing and hub.orginal shaft wore on bearing last year so to get threw harvest we built up shaft with jb weld only last 500 acres so this year at beginning we got lathed down and sleeved did 1500 acres and broke thats the rest of the story...

 

[NDDan]

You all ready have the bigger bearing and shaft ect. Problem started with loose nut. Can't allways get rid of problem with JB or sleeve in that location. Some locations will just come back and haunt you with that sort of fix. You shouldn't need a washer or spacer between hub and bearing as long as nothing has milled hub shorter. If bearing has been working on shaft it would of likely milled down hub. If hub has been milled down it likely is not true anymore unless it was done in a lathe. If milled down the difference needs to made up with a good washer or something but it must be true and square. You should use loctite between inner race of bearing and shaft. You should use anti-seeze on shaft splines. You need to be sure that washer or wedge washer does not bottom out on shoulder of shaft when torqued up to 600 foot pounds. It's a good idea to recheck torque after some run in time. Best of luck