Combines Mounting a JD row crop onM2

HG, The easiest way I've found is to make two brackets from 3_16" plate to extend the drive down and back, probably about 8". Just cut a hole for the bearing, drill bolts to hold the flanges, drill holes to match the old flange holes, and bolt the brackets on where the shaft used to fit. Then just slide the shaft into the new bracket, and it will be lined up with the combine splined drive shaft. I took an old splined coupler, welded on a short piece of hex shaft, and got another coupler to fit the chain coupling. Keep in mind that each side will be a different length, so you have to measure each one. I did add another bearing to the header drive shaft to eliminate the shaft from flopping, as it was prone to do without some support. The best part of making up drive adaptor brackets is that you can always take them out and return the drive to the stock configuration, and they are very inexpensive to make. Just take your time and double check the locations before cutting or drilling! Have run mine for about 10 years, and love the crop head for milo and beans! Very little header loss! Good luck in your project! Gleanerpilot

The new JD corn head has a U-Joint in from the side chain case and a PTO shaft type drive-shaft, you can see how JD used one inch angle iron to make the bearing support six inches in from the bearing support behind the drive chain. So from the chain case sprocket you have a bearing six inches of shaft another bearing then a U-Joint with PTO shaft another U-Joint with 1000 RPM PTO coupler that slides onto the combine. I run this on 920 JD flex head and 6 row hi tin corn head

How do you like the Deere heads compared to GleanerIJ I was thinking of putting green heads on my R-50 as well. Gleaner heads in my area seem to be way overpriced compared to Deere. Around here 920's can be found as low as $4500 and 220's for $1500-$2500. I know Hugger heads are supposed to be good but seem extremely expensive. My old black head does a decent job but way too much maint. I used to run an old 443 on a 4400 and virtuall never had to touch it, with my Gleaner I never make it a season without something breaking and going through about 2 cases of chain lube on all those chains( that designer was some genius).

I had considered using PTO shafts for the drives, but would have had to cut off the shafts to make them short enough. The shafts would have cost about $300 for the pair, and I couldn't set the head back to stock. Found that moving the shaft worked much better, and was much cheaper. I forgot to add on the original post that you have to add links to the drive chains, and I added an idler on the auger drive to keep the chain out of the sheet metal. Gleanerpilot

920 bean head works great, the cutter bar is closer to the table auger resulting in more even feeding than my old green stripe bean head. My 920 has the slide locking pins on the bottom of the adapter (BISH) PTO shaft drives, HYD pump drives off right side for reel,left side drives wobble box,JD wobble box seems better than IH GlEANER it's a oil bath with a counter weight so its vibrates less. I changed the feederbeater sprocket from a 44 tooth to a 36 tooth to improve feeding, You lockout the header speed on the slow position for the grain table then it feeds too slow so I speed it up with a 36 tooth. My hi-tin JD 630 uses the old style BISH adapter that uses half inch bolts on the bottom I change back to the 44 tooth plug in the varable speed head drive speed it up to 3_4 and thats good for 5 mph.You're right about less up keep on JD heads. I am running out of GlEANER dealers. But JD has the right idea putting U-Joints on the new heads that makes them easy to put on IH combines too, Besides increasing the resale value. The kid at the elevator says I have the cleanest beans (thanks to the bean screen) He says the guys with the new JD combines have so many pods he has to poke them down,I pick on those JD guys saying "It's not the head must be the GlEANER"