Pengs5
Guest
Yep engine out as pan has to come off to gain access to con rod caps,these are the bolts that need replacing.Get genuine new ones from gleaner dealer. Measure old one's against new one's to measure stretch from tip to head with vernier calipers. This will tell if you have any stretch. Replace bearings and look at condition of old ones . they will look bronzy and make sure crankshaft journals look smooth and not scratched. Number your caps if there not before disassembly Make sure new bearings are right size for journals.Dont want overtight over size in there as will destroy in seconds. Should be stamped on back of bearing (shell) STD for standard and say 10 for 10 thou over etc .Correct me if wrong there have'nt done any motors for a few years. Old rule of thumb on these engs is 1000Hrs to 1500Hrs for these rod bolts and if not using to much oil and working OK than just do that and worry about the rest when it needs it as per any engine. Fairly simple quick procedure for any reptable engine man so if not confident with engines just pull engine off your self and let the experts do the hard stuff and they have more of a idea of how she's all been spinning in there and whether the crank needs grinding etc not to mention measuring the right bearing clearance's so you know she runs right from the start. Consider water pump O_H while engine off and check or replace your drive disk that bolts to flywheel the rivets and springs could be rattly . It is a confidence builder to have that done cause they usually eventually throw a leg out of bed if not done(especially if it is still revving high ). Note your oil pressure before and after. peng