Combines N5 separator wont switch off

[tbran]

Split clutch shaft problemIJ There is a connection in the middle of main shaft, with grease fitting,for a bearing that is the idler brg on part n 71306816 for when the separator is off. IF this brg locks up then the separator will continue to turn. Warped clutches will do the same. Pull the wire to the sep clutch on the valve stack or cap the line to check for residual pressure. Also try to turn the big cylinder drive belt by hand with engine off to again check to see if it is mechanical rather than electrical or hydraulic.

 

[R_O_M]

Pengs5. If that clutch bearing on the main shaft, in the guts of the header is gone, which tbran suggests as one possibility for your trouble, a Holden rear axle bearing from the same era as the header goes straight in. Good luck.

 

[Pengs5]

It is the bearing gone. Had the shaft ready to come out and when i un did oil line it free wheeled so i started to think it was valve.As could'nt really see or feel any thing wrong with all that clutch. But that was only because its all so frigging heavy. So pulled valve apart and swapped bits to no avail than ran it to see that it was'nt pressurised and was actually all off but still engaged because it is running just terrible and sloppy cause of gone bearing hence catching the plates. Really annoyed with ourselves cause tbran gave me all the hints about mechanical or electric _hyd. But its all so heavy just moving it by hand. all though it did feel different to when i just move it grease it. So a holden axle bearing like out of a banjo diff. Do i pull a seal or does it become a non greaser IJ It is the bearinrg on the very end of shaft before a jam nut on shaft that goes from left of machine with the main pulley with three v's than the hydro pulley. this bearing has funny looking rollers sort of tapered both sides. I'm going to post again in a minute about how it came apart and how it goes back together my tea's ready. Thanks alot anyway fella's got me on the right track. Pengs5

 

[Pengs5]

This is how i removed Main shaft separator clutch All belts that hang off it off oil line etc. Wound in bolts in cast housing on big outer bearing housing to push it self off. Outer pulley off, hydro pulley still attached. It separated at the stuffed little bearing on the end of this outer shaft .Outer bearing cone split in two i'm guessing through grease hole or grove. My assistant had hold of it and we lowered it onto little ledge. We than unbolted little ledge and lowered it to ground . Is'nt supposed to come out of a splined hub a bit further through near the front clutch bits IJ Was i supposed to unbolt anything IJ I can see the start of next shaft after removing a heap of grease that i've been pumping in there .So the big spoked offset hub is the first bit hanging off now, the one with the grease nipple on it and the six clutch pins . Do i pull the next bits off IJ The next bearing is in or near the shaft tubeIJ How is it re-assembledIJ Sorry about all this guess i'm a main clutch shaft virgin .Done 11 hassle free years. Is'nt that bearing a bit small for all that weight. It also has broke welds on plate near shaft tube and cracked side of elevator housing .So session with welder thought i might reinforce some. So the separator clutch is hydraulicly activated from valve bank and front_header clutch is just electrically activated IJ Six big pins are a bit worn clutch plates look good . Have piston assembly off Should i put new orings IJno sign of a leak. Pulled hydro pulley hub and piston and hub to get outer bearing to press to press off bearing as could'nt move it with big pullers and dont want to wreck oil line hole. Any help would be great as would like to get another few years again. Thanks again fella's Pengs5

 

[dustyr72]

Pengs5, when we do these we take a come-a-long and attach it to the back of the header then run the cable back under the cab then over the pipe that is above the shaft assembly you just took out then down to the shaft. It takes all the heavy lifting(and cussing) out of this job. I would put new orings for cheap insurance.

 

[R_O_M]

Hi Pengs5. Dead quiet around here as light rain has stopped play for a couple of days. Check those hardened drive pin bushes in your clutch plates as they will crack and cause some grief. The old N series header chassis use to get out of alignment after a few years use. To get the clutch plates to engage fully, AC required that the 2 main drive shaft bearings and the clutch shaft main bearing on the lH side be checked for alignment. This was usually done by removing all shafts and using a string to check that all three main bearings were in line. A much easier method to check alignment, which did not need the removal of the main shaft follows. Cut a rough disc a little larger than the main shaft drive pin clutch wheel, out of say, 5mm sheet. Drill 6 very oversize holes around the periphery to match the drive pins. Weld a piece of about 25mm or larger shaft, long enough to extend through the lH clutch shaft main bearing mounting position, as central and as accurately as possible onto the disc. Remove 3 pins, slip the disc over the other 3 pins and lightly bolt the disc onto the clutch shaft using the 3 holes from which the pins have been removed. The 25mm shaft should now extend throught the lH clutch shaft bearing's location. Spin main shaft and tap the disc, with it's oversize bolt holes, until the 25mm shaft turns exactly central in the middle of the lH clutch bearing mounting location. It does not matter if the 25mm shaft moves around elsewhere, so long as it is accurately central in the bearing's location position. Possibly the only machining required is to now make a bush to fit over the 25mm shaft and inside the clutch shaft bearing to accurately locate the bearing, although a couple of correct sized old collars, drilled out, will also do the job. locate bearing and housing onto the bush and 25mm shaft and drill, weld or shim the bearing housing and bearing mount as required to fix onto the chassis in it's new position. Hopefully you will not have to make any big bearing relocations such as redrilling bearing mounting holes and etc. If done correctly you will have all 3 bearings exactly in line and save yourself a big job of removing the main shaft. The materials cost little more than scrap. I came up with this as did not relish the thought of removing the main shaft and I could not see that the string would be very accurate in any case. I hope the above description and procedure can be deciphered. As they say; Every job needs a lazy man, He always finds the easiest way to do a job! Cheers.