Combines N7 Rotor is out

[Tom_Russell]

It is good to hear you got the thing out. Now you are an official experienced Gleaner guy! Seriously, it wasnt very difficult, was itIJ I added 2 extra paddles on my R60 per recommendations of the experts on this board. You might think about weighing your new bars. My experience is that aftermarket bars arent paired by weight like they are supposed to be. Keep us posted on your progress Tom in MN

 

[marshall]

How did you balance the rotor after adding the (2) new paddlesIJ Did you do it in the machine or make a stand and rotateIJ Is the 8 bar style concave okIJ

 

[Tom_Russell]

Good question. I bought a used digital scale for $150 from a local scale supplier and weighed everything that went on the rotor including bars and paddles. When welding paddles on the rotor I made sure to install equal weight parts on opposite sides and used the same number of welding rods on each paddle. For balancing rotor bars I simply ground off the heavy ones with an angle grinder. Then I static balanced the entire rotor in the machine. Dynamic balancing would have been better but I couldnt find anyone who was interested in balancing a rotor that size. I dont recall how many bars my concave has nor do I remember if there was a choice.

 

[marshall]

Thanks - I will do the same. I have a good set of digital scales. I will probably go ahead and add the extra paddles. It is simple enough to do.

 

[Irv]

When we did our work on the rotor, we ended up taking it to Huisman Machine in Worthington, MN to have it balanced. He has the ability to dynamically balance rotors, straw choppers etc.

 

[mo]

My dealer has a output shaft out of a gear box with two bearings and then the stop sign bearing on the other end. Works ok. Spread the weight along the length of the rotor not a hunck of cast on one end. Although with pre balanced you've got a real leg up.

 

[Bigsky]

Used to run a 1981 N7. I sure wish this site was up and running in the old days. We put many hours on our 7, but we sure had some grief with it in those days. I now come and check this site everytime I'm on the computer. I'll list the problems we used to have. Its been 15 years since we had it, so I'll try and remember. -rear spindle breaking a few times. -feeder chains always jumping a cog -airconditioner never working -accelerator roll chain always wearing out, even with the best chain. -cagesweep always plugging,especially on sidehills -concave always opening, and breaking hang cables -discharge area always plugging in heavy and tough crops -feeder chain always plugging in canola...no reverser....what a headache. -gear box bolts always breaking in tough conditions, such as flax. Even worse when it breaks the flange on the gearbox. -always electrical problems..especially the alternator. Got to the point were I could take it off blindfolded. Numerous mechanics could never find the problem. I think it was a NeihoffIJIJIJ or something like that alternator. Finally switched to a Delco and had less problems -Numerous seperator clutches etc. - many more smaller things. Had a lot of problems, but I know that most if not all of these problems were later updated or changed. Its to bad that the farmer has to do a lot of the "testing" for these companies. Good luck

 

[Rolf]

G'Day Just a word on balancing guy's, In my experience I would not get to fussy about getting it just right!!!!! by all means match your bars and static balance it, but when everything is up and running and MOG is going through the processor it will in a short space of time (100-200 ft into crop) will dynamic balance your rotor anyway!!! it's very much like a oil filled harmonic balance on the front of a engine, the oil will even out the balance, so will the MOG (Material other than grain) in the back of all the rasp bars on the rotor. I'm up for a debate if anyone disagreeds!!!! Rolf

 

[glr62]

when the open rotor stops it will be heavy on the bottom, then more material will drop to the heavy side and be farther out of balance. then the rod and scrape technique--yuk!!

 

[glr62]

re-read your post. starting out with a closely balanced rotor is the trick. have to agree with your philosophy. just had to try and argue--ha ha