Combines New to harvesting l2

[unit_3]

UNlOADING AUGER - On the back side of where the auger turns when you fold the auger in. The inside plate stays still as it is bolted to the grain tank. The outside ring turns with the auger tube. Between these two plates are ball bearings. I like to shot some oil in the crack and keep them lubed once a day. Also check wheel and final drive bolts to make sure they stay tight!

 

[Tom_Russell]

Congratulations on purchasing one of the best combines built. It sounds like you didnt get the parts catalog. You should definite spend a couple of bucks and buy both a parts catalog and service manual. Then spend as much time reading as you can. We parted out an M2 last year that had a good l2-M2 parts catalog that might still be on a shelf somewhere. Email if you are interested.

 

[Trent_McCain]

Yep, we've got all the manuals, parts, books, and service records......have to get studied up on by sumer.......kinda like being back in college! Thanks for everyones assistance.

 

[Burbert]

l2 is a good, simple combine to operate and maintain, lots of capacity for small farmers. Besides lubing the unloading auger, check the rubber bushings on all the shaker parts, if they are breaking, down or squeezing out of position, replace them immediately otherwise things will fly apart. Check the bottom of the grain tank to see that it is not worn through, and each year after harvest, clean it out, DON'T leave grain in the bottom.

 

[JIW]

For the air filter, you might try the Fram website. They have an email contact that might be able to come up with an application. Give them a minimum ID, a maximum OD, and height requirement and they might be able to find a match for you. Another lube point you might want to check are the right and left pivot shaft bearings. These are not greaseable and have to be disassembled, cleaned and repacked. I got real lucky last fall. I had to remove the left pivot shaft sheave. When I did, all the rollers and what was left of the cage fell out. I was lucky because the shaft and the sheave hub were largely unharmed. A little emery cloth, a new cup and cone and it was good as new (I hope). You'll notice that the inboard bearing on the left pivot shaft sheave has an integral grease seal bonded to the bearing. The one on the right uses a conventional seal like you'd see on a wheel hub. As if you didn't have enough to do! Good luck.

 

[unit_3]

lay those rubbers bushings on your shop bench and hose the inside of them down with WD40. lay the pin of the arm over the hole and hit the arm with a rubber hammer. This little tricks works.