Combines OK I have the rotor out

what type of thresher grate wire spacing do you have. If 1_2" then remove every other wire here as well if you have the high wire its ok. I think lowen now has a more aggressive retarder system to bolt in in lieu of the F2 rasp bars. As to balance, if you take everything off in pairs on opposite sides of the rotor and replace with balanced sets likewise you will be balanced. Rev it up to 1000 rpms and you will ascertain in a moment if balance is a problem. I have personally had the rotor out of my unit many times for various tests and have followed the above guidelines and it still runs fine.

I'd would be interested to know where you can get your rotor balanced. I can't find anyone to do it.

Call Dave Yurke of Yurke Sales and Service in Comber, Ontario. He sends them out somewhere but I don't know where. His telephone number is 1-519-687-2209 or toll free 1-800-265-4659

Hey Bill, sounds like you and I deal at the same place. Your proposed set-up is what I ran this year. Done a good job. Still some loss in 200 bushel 28-30% corn but not much. My problem was with cob break-up and overloading of the short shoe 50 to get good clean sample. I had my rotor balanced and had weights put on all over, even tho I tried to weigh the bars and match before assembly (used some used bars on the separator end). I had a vibration previous year so knew wheat would really shake me up.I leave the fillers in for soys. Don't be afraid to tigthen the concave. I run 0-1_16" for wheat, under 1_4 for beans,just watch for cracks. Was in the field next to an R-65 in flat down corn this fall and I think it had as much rotor loss as my set up, of course it was no where near capacity where these machines work best because of conditions. Rob. r_repko@Yahoo.com

First I'll assume what you can see is flowing smoothly. Gathering at the header (front) is very important. You have the feeder shocks in your 52 right! Feeders with shocks in grain position should automatically adjust to feed of any crop and keep it feeding smooth where you can't see. I've heard nothing but good about the hump on rock door. Door will have to be set a bit tighter to allow for the continuous weight of hump and pressure from feeding. Door will respond to foreign object better and improve feeding. That is why when we have a guy that has to have sump instead of door we have a wire asssembly that stretches over sump to maintain as good of feed as possible. The other guys have mentioned removing wires from the low narrow wire concaves or grates and I would add to plug exposed holes with plug kit or something similiar. I think there are good pictures of a 40-50-42-52 rotor with bars removed and gusssets installed in hyper mod site. Be sure to fasten gussets with bolts that go threw the star if you do us them. We have installed gussets the same direction as they were when supporting the discharge paddles after sharpening leeding edge. We weld lip onto gusset to hang over backup bar to prevent it from ever twisting and then you don't have to shorten gusset. You may be interested in just leaving out every other bar in seperator area which will surely reduce broken cobs and from reports I've heard work just fine in your wheat. You ask about filler bars in concave and we are beginning to just leave two or three in for all crops with fine results. Front of concave is at a fairly large clearance in MID position thus cause little if any crop damage and then we just tighten up front of concave for the tough to thresh wheat if adjusted up as tight of posible on the outside. I'd be very surprised if you aren't happy with the setup you are thinking. There is nothing wrong with shooting for zero loss and great capacity so if you still aren't satisfied we may have another trick up our sleeves. For instance hypers method of sliding every other crossbar in seperator grate back and or removing every other or two crossbars and then building up wires remaining with pieces of wire you have removed. Gleaners high wide wire grate of today is somewhat of a mix of the original low narrow wire and what I'm suggesting as an idea for you. This setup you are planing sounds good for most all crops with the omitance of cylinder bars unique to guys with corn in their rotation. I think that about covers it. Good luck

Thanks for the reply. Yes I do have shocks installed as well as the hump kit. I don't get what you mean by plugging exposed holes though. I am going to use the gussets on every other row of bars and like your idea of welding a lip on them to keep them straight. Excellent! I'll leave the 3 filler strips in for soys after using them in wheat to try them as it won't take long to remove them if necessary. I'm thinking that when I get this all done I will get the rotor balanced even if it does cost me the $900 as I will have changed the configuration of the rotor quite drastically. The only other thing I can see to do if I'm still not happy is to change the bars in the separator grate as you suggest but I think I will do these changes, try it next season and go from there. Thanks.

When wires are pulled out they leave a bunch of holes in cross bars. Straw will spear into them and cause pluging. Wouldn't bother in corn and maybe not a big deal in soybeans or wheat but I would do it. I've heard it is very noticable the plugging it can cause when you do a full load kill manuver. Gleaner has a nice plastic plug kit for this and some guys have pluged holes with a liquid plastic and even tack welded in short steel rivets. Good luck

Concave hole plug kit Partn 71371547 fills approx. 250 holes Dan is right, I would highly recommend plugging holes after wires are pulled, or else grain freefall can be disrupted by mog catching in this area.

Thanks a lot for that suggestion as I never thought about that before. I did notice that when I pulled the rotor out that there was some corn stalk and foreign material lodged there.

by plugging these holes, will it help reduce rotor lossIJ thanks