Combines oops

Redhotnrolli_n

Guest
As I understand you would like to keep the belts tight yet not connect the wires to the alternatorIJ Don't do it as that will let alternator run on an open circuit and it will fry.
 

nebraska_farmer

Guest
ok thanks redhot...i just picked up my new alternator today, how should in do this, i only have about 20 acres left to harvest, i don't really want to do a major re=wire until after harvest. any ideas guysIJ thanks
 

randj

Guest
if its just the alt wires just put new ends on should be no need to do a rewire!
 

Redhotnrolli_n

Guest
nebraska farmer; I can't tell you from here the color code as what plugs in where, I only know there is a single heavy "bat" wire, and the remaining 2 or 3 that go in the alt. Those 2 or 3 Must be connected to their proper terminal or there'll be more trouble! Get the colors and the order from another machine like your own, put ends on them and plug in and go.
 

WadeK

Guest
I had to rewire my 1460 with new ends as the plug fell apart. Im not sure but I would guess the wiring is the same. I used the schematic from the operators manual to trace which wires go where. I can look on mine and see if it will help. Will try to repost by 8:00pm nebraska time 10_24.
 

iaremec

Guest
look in your operators manual under charging wire schematics. if you don't hook up the three wires you won'st hurt anything bbut will not charge. alt three wires is marked t1 t2 and s which is signal to front light and buzzer. and they should be color coded if you go up the wires to see fresh wire_
 

nebraska_farmer

Guest
i really appreciate all you guy's input on this, i still have the front half of the old alternator still on the combine, you spose i can keep that there to keep the belts tight while i finishIJ or will there be a danger of the shaft coming out and going thru the radiatorIJ i can throw a charge into the batteries to keep it going.
 

Pengs5

Guest
Dont think you can get a wrench on there anywhere. I've unbolted a cage door on left engine side and pull out nearlly all of block by hand while kicking it out the sides with ones feet as you stand in engine bay. Operators manual says to do this . Opening concave will help in that area but from my experience it blocks hard further in where there is no adjustment through into separater area. Dont force it by trying to drive it out as puts to much stress on driveline. Does'nt take that long especially with air ratchet on nuts and bolts and better than smashing something. Just watch for shims between cage doors but not the end of the world if you lose some. Can also undo a plate on very end of rotor under the bearing if you have to pull stuff that end. Never is fun good luck.
 

R_O_M

Guest
Can't help you here but maybe count your blessings it is only barley and etc! Just down the road from us, quite a few years ago, a local lad plugged the walkers of his machine with safflower. Safflower, an oilseed, is a member of the thistle family and is so well endowed with spikes that a couple of seeder widths around a crop has been used to keep wild pigs [ hogs ] out of a crop that the pigs were partial to. The local lad spent a couple of days and a large number of leather gloves while lying in the back of his machine, unplugging the walkers with a set of pliers! No transcript was kept of his utterances during the unplugging process!
 
 
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