Combines Post below auger drive chain

Good point, tbran, I have seen that problem also. That can be real frustrating until it is figured out what is going on.

There is also a kit to place a n60 drive chain kit on the 30' augers where heavy loads are a problem. This plus an extra spring washer will really push the auger to the limit. The whole idea is to feed it evenly to start with so as to avoid the slugs. This is in a perfect world however. Conditions vary. I talked to our service rep last week and he said that slowing down the header auger helps, it kills us.

What is this extra spring washerIJIJ We have an 830 that is doing this and I have done everything to cure this problem. I even put on one of those SCH Pro drives thinking it was the wobble box. I checked the fiber bushing and it seemed all right. And when your running at high idle with no load should the auger run smoothIJ

I couldn't see that the sprocket was running of center, but I finally put in that $34 fiber piece. I think it helped some. I also ended up puting on the smaller sprocket and pulley from my flex head. It seemed to help a little too. A new header drive belt might slow it all down a little cause it would ride alittle higher in the front shieve. Now I'll have to see if I want to buy another small sprocket_pulley or switch it back.

71323992 is the belville washer. Just add one more.

What does adding one more washer doIJIJIJIJ

I think dibber is concerned with chain whip not torque that clutch will hold. Did they change step on hub or washer that compresses wave washers when they added spring washerIJ I believe they increased key way length or width in hub and or shaft when they went to n60 chain but didn't know if they changed dimention that allowed for another wave washer. I know they increased size of key to help allow for low torque on retaining nut but we had one slip by and quess what!!!! (new shaft and hub). Any way back to chain whip at high idle no load and likely still there to a certain degree under load. I think it comes from sickle drive and Rolfs idea of flywheel weight near source is the answer. If you are reading this Rolf what do you thinkIJ I know you say it eliminates vibration but do you remember if you had the chain whiping with your vibration and is chain whiping at hi RPM no load gone along with vibrationIJ If it wasn't sickle drive causing this I would try balancing auger. You would want to be sure auger is fairly straight and uniform tempature and then find heavy side. Bolt nessesary weight to light side on the inside of finger area. May need to be sure temp hasn't got too uneven before retesting. Is it possible to add weight to that drive you have dibberIJ I'm feeling a stupid right now for I can't remember if the 800 has the flyweight on the back shaft. If it doesn't I'm sure the keyway is there for either the 700 and or 800 has the flyweight on rear shaft standard equipment. Good luck and give use progress report.

This is what we have done so far without any luck yet: Redid the A frame put in new tie rod ends to make sure their was no side to side movement, put on a SCH Prodrive, nice setup but didn't solve the problem. Balanced the auger changed everything to the new heavy 60 chain. Used a magnetic dial indicator to check the sprockets on the auger and they run nice and true. I have heard that Gleaner might have a A frame set up for the right hand side to stabilize the sickle some more, haven't tried this yet. So I have just about run out of things to try. The head works fine and the chain doesn't bother but I would like to see it run smoother with less chain whip. When you run the head with the sickle belt off the chain still whips so I doubt it has anything to do with the sickle drive. I just wonder if it has something to do with the overall size of the auger and the inertia it creates when it gets moving and the chain drive components aren't quite heavy enough for the load that the auger creates.

G'Day dibber I answer to Dan's Question on fly wheel, Yes it did help with chain whip somewhat! on our flex 500 we have that chain idler that runs on the bottom side of the table auger chain (drive side) and we still have some whip at high idle but it's not a real worry as soon as the front's in the crop the whip is gone. Now I have heard that you can get crap in the inside of the table auger and it can stick to one side that will give you some chain whip as well. Dibber can you tell us if the whole combine wobbles back and fourth when at high idleIJ also how's your spline up near the feeder houseIJ as you might be getting some shock loads from the combine to the front and the table auger is the place you can see that!!! do you have the vari speed down at feeder house, as this might be a place to look atIJ Also Dib what rev's are you running the table auger atIJ we found that our TA was actually running slower than what all our books and specs stated, once we had speed it up to around 180-200 RPM the whole thing ran very well in crop. (is yours running alot fasterIJIJ) Does you shock on the end of the front have much movementIJ ours before the flywheel, use to get so hot it was almost smoken!!!!! and the wobble box belt use to flail about and wreck it self in about 200 hour's. Now with the flywheel that little shock bearly moves, the dirt that accumulates around the top of the shock only has a 2 to 3 mm gap showing between the shock and the shaft. last but not least, has the bottom sprocket got out of roundIJ or the PTO shaft that's it at attached to got a bit of a small bend in the end which would cause the chain to your TA to run slack_tightIJ You should be able to turn the whole front over TA and knife with one hand!! (if you have the pto flywheel on it's easy from there, all your holed downs and wear plates are not to tight!!! the last three wear plates near the wobble box end should be right back!) Hope you don't take unkindly to my probing but let us know on how you get on!!!! Rolf PS: Would like to know more on the A frame on Right hand end Please!

I have always had better results by completely removing the last 2 or 3 wear plates on the wobble box end. It is correct when the sickle will cycle without flexing fore and aft.