Combines Potentiometer used for automatic headers IJIJIJIJ

[tj]

You definitely need the new style potentiometer. I don't know what will happen if you don't. Maybe that is your problem. I do know that the microcontroller that operates the header controll is not cheap and I would not take chances sending the wrong current or voltage to it. They are usually very sensitive and easily destroyed by that type of thing. I don't remember what they cost but they are a snap to change - five minute job.

 

[tj]

You definitely need the new style potentiometer. I don't know what will happen if you don't. Maybe that is your problem. I do know that the microcontroller that operates the header controll is not cheap and I would not take chances sending the wrong current or voltage to it. They are usually very sensitive and easily destroyed by that type of thing. I don't remember what they cost but they are a snap to change - five minute job.

 

[iaremec]

don't exactly know how post is meant. 2000 series take the little round clear pot. the 1600 take the black bigger pot. if you have a 2000 series sound like you are not getting into auto. should be doublee arrows on screen. everything plugged in, cycle key off then on. raise head clear up and hold for 3 seconds then lower and do same. then with sep. engaged try to put in auto. make sure you're in ht.

 

[Rob_NeArk]

Problem partially solved. I had the round clear pot used on the 2188 and newer combines. A black pot potentiometer pluged in and operated by hand worked perfectly. Problem is, it is going on a 1052 draper header with the "yield optimizer" as CaseIH calls it mounted near the turnbuckle between the platform and header adapter. As of now the local dealer is not sure that Case makes the right potentiometer to fit onto this yield optimizer. The way it mounts is different and the big black pot style will not work. Thanks