Combines Pushing my 1680IJ

Old_Pokey

Guest
Glad to hear you're up and running. I'm curious, what is your emty rotor speedIJ Is everything else going wellIJ If your loss is acceptable, and your sample looks good, see what she'll do once. Are all the engine guages reading what they're supposed toIJ
 

Farm_Kid2

Guest
We have the same engine and after we got the governor set correctly in the injection pump we could peg that power meter. It's a 30 psi guage, so at 1 o'clock you are probably only runing 18 psi of boost. That's way too low if you want to get the rated HP. I would pull it down to 2550 rpm and set the alarm at 2500. That's plenty conservative, in my opinion. You could even take another 50 rpm off each number if you want to.
 

Old_Pokey

Guest
Hey Farm Kid 2, how is you and your dad's harvest coming alongIJ Would you have an extra minute that you could read down a few posts to Shep Va's 1420IJ He is looking for info on concave choices and stuff, and it sounds like the kind of crops you harvest.
 

west_illini

Guest
Thanks for the words of encouragement. My empty rotor speed is 330, as slow as it will go. My same sample is clean except for a small cob bit very rarely. No cracks now after slowing it down. The only few kernals I can find on the ground I can only trace to the cornhead.
 

west_illini

Guest
Farm Kid2, I am kind of afraid to really push it as the old engine would just dog down in (when in beans) or tear a rotor belt. THis is really a new machine now to get used to again. I will be running by myself tomorrow so I will play around with it a little. We can't haul it away fast enough the way it is though Find more info in the reply to Old Pokey
 

Old_Pokey

Guest
Wow! If your rotor only pulls down 10 while the engine pulls about 60, you really have things set up good. You must have the torque sensor mechanism on the rotor in great shape. If your loss is good like you say, and the sample is good, I'd like to hear what you find out tomorrow if you get a chance to fiddle around a bit. Keep an eye on the temp guage after replacing that engine. Dont want any hose clamps to start loosening and loose coolant without warning.
 

Farm_Kid2

Guest
We are done with milo and hoping for some rain on the beans. They are a ways off yet. I'll take a look at that post.
 

Farm_Kid2

Guest
I think you may have been having problems with the torque limiter on the rotor. You should not have any danger of stalling or plugging or doing damage to the belt at 2550 rpm. If the pump is set right, you shouldn't get to max HP until 2500. You should see a pretty good dropoff in HP and torque at 2400 rpm, so stay away from there. On a new engine, you want to load it up in my opinion. Minimal, if any, idling and lots of hard work. If you are nervous about lugging it down, pull out of the crop and put it in 3rd gear. Use the hydro to load the motor and see how it lugs down and how the power meter reacts. If you get a lot more boost than 1 o'clock, it's pretty safe to assume you've not been up to full HP. No chance of plugging this way, and you can quickly change the load to see how it reacts.
 

ihman

Guest
I know there was a difference in engine rpm's from IH to cummins. I can't remember which way it was but if I were you I would strongly consider backing down your RPM's from 2710 to around 2550. I've heard alot of bad stories about the engines not lasting to long at that high of RPM. Just a suggestion Good luck Brad NC. IN.
 

560man

Guest
If your empty rotor speed is 330, and your loaded speed is 320, you should definitely be able to pull it down some more. On our 2188 in wheat, we pull the engine from 2520 down to 2400, and the rotor from 1000 down to 930, on average.
 
 
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