Combines R 62 feeder floor

ND Dan can fix you right up. Post a question about lowering the floor between the chains with his kit and I know you will be satisfied. It involves a little work but it will take care of a lot of problems.

Scroll down to my post on 1_02_08 about the floor mod. lots more posts about this mod and if you have to repair the floor anyway I would definitely do the mod. It is now a standard mod from the factory on 2008 models.

If you didnt want to remove and lower the floor like some of the kits do, it would be really keen to have a stainless skin that wraps the front and turns down like the front of the feederhouse and broke and bent to slide right in, weld along the sides, have predetermined and punched holes to weld down along the way. 1_8" thick or 11ga wouldnt add to much thickness to hamper the performance to much I dont think. I have welded stainless with regular wire before, yeah the weld rusted but in this situation it wouldnt matter. Same goes for the flap between feeder house and second chain, go stainless like the front of the feeder floor. If someone agrees and pattents the idea I would like either a cut of the profits or a kit for a R52. TIA

the worst thing i ever did was put a piece of metal on top of the old floor. made a dam nightmare for feeding. order the kit from Hurtte's equipment and be done with it for years!!!

Agreed, we have one combine that was done that way and when its get late in the evening it starts to sound like the combine is going to rip the feeder chain in half. Spend the money and put the new style floor in her.

This is a perfect time for you to make that feeder hungry. The taller the axle the more important (axle risers and tire radius can change axle height by more than 10"s). Not much I can add to posts that mailman13 makes reference to so I'll post a few important things no matter if you have bone stock feeder or supersized. Belts must be tensioned properly. Commonly find guys don't keep the corn varible belt tightened properly and or have not been greasing (that zirk next to header drive coupling is as important as cylinder varible zirks). That torque senser zirk needs a good 100 shots of grease if new or just been apart and cleaned out. With only a couple shots of grease a day the sliding sheave will be sticking or wobbling out long before the grease gets to it. Next length of springs tensioning rear chain must be monitored. As chain wears the springs lose tention and must be adjusted. If chain becomes to loose the feeder will plug. Slip clutches should be greased regularly. Greasing the slip clutches helps prevent wear from working parts, keeps things from rusting solid, prevents spline wear, and helps clutch retain it proper breakaway torque. We prefer 7" rear feed tension drum which became factory available in '00 or '01 for it allows more room under drum. Some guys have cheated to get more room under 8" drum by removing top drum stop or cutting drum height block to allow drum to move higher (either way you want to remove large diameter flat washers behind block and replace with smaller diameter that wont get into side wall of combine when drum floats all the way up. Also be sure you still have plenty room to floor under grain bin while held up. Now hear's a real tricky one that have gave alot of guys trouble no matter if they have 3 strand feeder chains, four strand feeder chains, or any degree of floor modification. When Gleaner made the 7" rear tesion drum available they added a second hole in back of tension arm that holds the drum. With the bolt in rear hole (like you would think it should be for 7" drum) the bolt for securing drum shaft will bottom in window in side frame prevent chain from self tensioning and or front and rear chains can get together well before it appears you need to remove half links. We've been correcting this problem by using the front hole in tension straps no matter which size drum is installed. I think someone miscalculated radius between 7" and 8" drum when they decided they needed a different hole for different drums. We had never had any trouble just using single hole that was there for 8" drums when we install 7" drum in older machines. I've made some narrower floors for R40 thru 55s now. Remember if doing my mods that tail end of front feed floor is all ready 2" shorter on'92 and older machines. I shorten newer machines back to what is was plus another inch and tilt it down 1_2". This adds a bunch of room and prevents directing straw into center area of rear tension drum especially when feeder is set for cutting low.

If you're gonna be in there cutting and welding anyway, just put Dan's kit in. You won't be sorry.

D To the fourth power.......... Do Dan's Deal in every Detail. Can't go wrong. Combine feeds better. better feed equals more bushels. less HP required. Chain, bearings and floors last longer.