Combines R 62 from 1460

Since you are familiar with an AF, it is like putting in the speciality rotor for a Case IH machine when you install the Hyper mods to the R62. Makes a good machine into a great machine! It makes enough difference to pay for itself in a season or two.

Congratulations, I also have 96' R-62, which has all forward bars and extended bars, with a 36" rasp bar on the front of l.H. side of sep. grate. It does have 4 reverse bars 2 on 'A' row and 2 on 'B' row for green leafy milo. Was wanting to try this area with 4 blanks leaving only lugs on bolt heads. Never had a chance to do this, maybe this fall. Also installed shocks on both front and rear feed drums easy job on series 2. Have sep.grate covers installed with all wires pulled out of this grate. Hyperizing helps alot for the grain sample, power consumption, no slugs, improves overall capacity of machine. Good luck and let us know how things go...

9.9999999 do it. Really it will work OK the way it is but not good enough for me. You are mainly corn soybeans so set it up per hyper. I do like the before after storys but would rather you are real happy from the get go. You likely have followed this stuff so if you have any specific questions than let us help you. Good luck

Just how important is it to get those reverse bars out of there. Does both the rotor and cage need to be altered. Thanks

In very damp conditions a R62 was having trouble pushing 25' head 3.5MPH in soybeans. I took out the only two reverse bars in the third row from gearbox and jumped right up to 5.5MPH. NO loss before or after. Of course the 260HP R62 was hypered to the point of extended cylinder bars, extended helical across top left corner of feeder and feeder shocks. If you never have to harvest in wet conditions (early in morning or late at night) you may not notice any difference. Some people and areas of country have no hurry getting crop off but we don't have that choice. If you call removeing every other wire from seperator grate or concaves if you have low narrow wire altering than I would say you should alter. If your bars havn't been extended to discharge I would alter and get them extended. Many guys have just removed reverse bars and left blank. Some have installed half height forward bars in place of reverse and some have installed a sharpened gusset that supports discharge bar. You will have some gussets left over if you get them cylinder bars extended. You can find lots of talk on this earlier and I would just suggest if you use gussets be sure to get something welded to them to be sure they don't spin on the single bolt that will hold them in. I believe the gusset can be bolted in location the cylinder stars are located for as to add support. Good luck

Dan, When you talk about extending the cylinder bars are you refering to the extensions available at the exit into the chopper area. I have those and as you mentioned I have a problem with wet green bean stalks and that 3.5 MPH is about it. All that roping can't be good either. Thanks for the great reply, I really appreciate it.

Your welcome and yes they are the bars that help straw get to discharge area. Can take bunches of power in tough conditions if you don't have that rasp working with helical to keep material moving. Discharge paddle working with helical just don't move tough straw very well. Good luck