Combines R 62 MODS

[Dan]

Erick, Can't comment on tester but I will on edible beans. I wonder if there is any crop that you wouldn't want most of mods for I don't think so. Here's what I would be sure to do. 1997 machines should have feeder shocks and if not get them on. I would install rock door hump. I would remove every other wire from rear thresher concave and plug exposed holes from the missing wires, that is if you have the narrow spaced low wire concave. Be sure you have chrome helical bars in perfect condition and extend the third helical from gearbox to seperator grate area. Install seperator grate cover kit. Remove all reverse cylinder bars and replace with forward. Extend all cylinder bars to discharge and I like Hyper's idea of every other bar extending to end of rotor. Also would be a good idea to add a extra star or head to that area between the last two heads like John Keller suggested in earlier post. Have some half height cylinder bars on hand if you can't adjust for cylinder loss. For extremely dry beans you may need to remove the paddles from rear accelerator roll. Also for extremely dry beans you may need to check clearance of bottom clean grain auger to trough for there need to be more clearance than the thickness of a bean or much less clearance than the thickness of a bean. The same holds true for bin fill auger. Would be best to slow augers by about half if yeilds are low. Any of these mods should be fine for your other crops except of course accelerator roll paddles need to be all on and elevators speeded up. Hope this clears it up for you. Good luck. Dan

 

[WFEOlI]

By new, do you mean '01 modelIJ Mods depend on crops you want to run. For corn and beans, the high-wire separator grate is highly recommended. Has greater separating capacity, reduces rotor loss, and reduces cob breakage in corn. Equally good for beans and even small grains. You can get by by removing every other wire from the standard grate which has a 1" wire spacing, but then you get a 2" wire spacing which can be a bit much in some small grains. As for rocks, I would go with the Easy Close rock rock door with the hump kit installed on the door; it improves feeding into rotor. I also advocate removing reverse bars (or at least two of them) on the rotor. Then there are the more advanced upgrades you can do like those pioneered by Hurtt Implement in Hoople, ND. They sure work and my favorite is extending the third helical. Congratulations on your new Silver Bullet