Combines R50 concave and other ideas

Forgot to mention we have mostly soys and corn with only a little soft red and soft white wheat.

I just finished installing a new concave in my R50. I bought a high wire concave with a low wire grate. The only thing I like about the high wire one is that it does not plug up with cob pieces. As a grain concave, it is no good (in my opinion). If you need 3 filler bars now, you would need at least 3 more to do the same job. Your old filler bars will not fit. (Best idea for fillers in the high wire is one from Dan Hurtt - cut some angle to fill the space between the ribs of the concave, drill a 0.25" hole to bolt pairs to the underside of the concave. Easy install; easy removal.) I don't like to see corn kernels thrown out into the standing corn either - wish I knew the answer. Some ideas are posted below. I think it is a separating, not a threshing, problem. I plan to remove the extra helicals which extend into the discharge chamber. Not sure what good the F rasp does in the bottom - helped the parts dep't. Spoke to a dealer today who installs the reverse bars 2 at the drive end and 2 at the discharge. Mine are in the first and second positions. Rotor is out so not a lot of extra work. I changed an Axial-flow over to beans_corn last fall - thought it was rather awkward to install those concave pieces. It is a piece of cake compared to the two man job of installing a concave and stone door into this R50! Should have hired it done!! Be careful to not let the stone door fall on you while you are holding it over your head in that gopher hole.

I am wondering if the the new sunnybrook rotor will help with the rotor loss in corn. We have an R72 and we feel it should do a better job in the rotor loss department too. I am seriously considering ordering this rotor, but it would sure be nice to know if it will solve the problem so it won't be a waste of money. I sure like the looks of it and think it should work, but one never knows until you get it in the field and try it.

We use high wire concaves in R50s.Use hump kit on stone door. This starts threshing earlier and gives extra stone protection. Use concave fillers as required starting at front of concave. 2 reverse bars at drive end.Remove discharge paddles and support gussets.Cut worn cylinder bars to length of discharge paddles and bolt on using support gusset holes.(may have to drill new holes.)make sure you balance cylinder after installing.We have reduced cylinder loss using this configuration.

We use high wire concaves in R50s.Use hump kit on stone door. This starts threshing earlier and gives extra stone protection. Use concave fillers as required starting at front of concave. 2 reverse bars at drive end.Remove discharge paddles and support gussets.Cut worn cylinder bars to length of discharge paddles and bolt on using support gusset holes.(may have to drill new holes.)make sure you balance cylinder after installing.We have reduced cylinder loss using this configuration.

I actually find replacing the concave fairly easy. The stone door is heavy and awkward to handle. lay a couple pieces of 2X4 or 4X4 between the bin unloader drive and the little shelf under the accelerator roll (I think this is where). Helps to support the weight. Remove the top half of the concave to lessen weight when handling.

We've been using all hi-wide wire. We everything from flax to edible beans including very hard to thresh out spring wheat. We have always had to run cylinder clearance very close wheather we had wide or narrow wire concaves in hard to thresh wheat. Few machines do not have tailings return to cylinder package. Adjust up a true concave to 1_8" or less and then add filler bars as needed. On the P3s you can bring front of grate as tight as you want and I would bring it up to within 1_8" before filling any more than three rows with filler bars. Start with filler bars in the very front next to trap door. If you need more than three filler bars you would need the closer clearance or more speed for if you are getting hulls in hopper and have sieve fairly well closed and have tailings return kit you more than likely still have some grain in the head at the chopper. boy that was a mouth full. We run mostly choppers and they can hide a unthreshed grain in the head problem for the chopper will finish the thresh. I don't know if I'm hitting your questions or someone elses but I have not been able to get on this thing for awhile. I don't think the shorter rotor would be a whole lot different from the longer one. If you want to slow down the flow then slow down ground speed and the cylinder speed for you would be limited to that anyway if you didn't hyperize. Removing helicals or standing some up will maybe reduce losses but it will also slow you down. I'm thinking more of the answer for possible corn loss and maybe even wheat is the finger devise that the old P1s had. With the extremly possitive flow with a hyperized machine it looks like we can kind of comb that mat of material and lower losses without noticeable power consumption. We may find the F2 rasp bar unnessessary when a comb or spike attachment is tested a bit more. When you say your machine is hyperized I would wonder how hyperized. There are many stages of hyperizeing and if you would get specific on what all you did that would help me and others. I know it is hard to get specific enough all the time but there are many things that can make a difference. When we are talking rotarys we are talking about 23 years of production and although the concept has stayed exactly the same there has been quite a few changes. Got to go for now.

There is no answer to rotor loss with a GlEANER. Thats why they call them silver seeders. One guy tells you to hyperize next guy tells you to do something different. No other combine site deals with grain loss problems like this one. High wire concaves, low wire concaves, narrow cylinder bars, wide cylinder bars, adjustable sep. grate, forward bars, reverse bars, extended cylinder bars, slow pitch helicals, fast pitch helicals, stone traps, rock hump doors, returns to cylinder, and more. All these (fixes) don't end grain loss. MAYBE THE DESIGN IS NOT RIGHT! tired of wrenching! looking at STS.