Combines R50 duetz running warm

[preacherman]

We have run an R50 for about 10 years now. We had a lot of trouble early on with heat problems. Our difficulity can all be traced back to an oil leak around the seal of the pushrod tube. The oily dirt is cooked by the heat from the head and lodges inside the air fins of the cylinder head. It is difficult to get out. You can't really see that area and the rest of the engine can look clean but the top of the head is the critical part. As far as the oil coolers go, we had never powerwashed ours out in ten years. We have used air to blow them out but that is all. Good luck.

 

[Rex]

We run a R-50 with around 3000 engine hours, have replaced the fan 3 times with that being the problem. I have had a valve cover leaking and getting in the head fins causing problems with the warning light going off. My recipe to clean up your heating problems are Easy off oven cleaner (use plenty in the fins an push rod tubes),powerwash, and use air preasure to get any water and dirt out, then I use a piece of soft wire (electric fence wire) to put through the head fins to the opposite side to make sure they are clear. Just take your time and get All of the oil and dirt out of the fins an your problem should be over.

 

[Dan]

I would check to see new fan is up to speed. If you get a water manometer you could stuff hose into air chamber area and with hot oil and 2500 engine RPM you should see at least six inches of water. That is three inches up and 3 inches down from water level when engine shut down. I would guess pressure is fine and you have two separate problems. If oil temp. is up and light started to bother I lean toward dirty cooler (the one that lays flat). If everything is clean like the other guys explane I would lean toward sending unit or intercooler core still plugged. The more efficient intercooler core is the less chance of heat transfer to head. You might find that anytime a guy uses water to clean these things you best do a super job or else trouble will be lurking. Same holds true with washing radiators in to liquid cooled machine. Once you start washing you need to let everything get soaked up good so the mud will flow out with the water. Good luck

 

[sebas]

I still can't understand the problem with the fans. My engine have the original fan and have 13000 hours. Only replaced the bearings two times. Bert... Blow your engine with air pressure, not with water. You say you cleaned the coolers but, do you clean the cilinders tooIJ

 

[Nobul]

Had the same problem. There was a lot of "stuff" built up around the head on n6 cylinder, right where the temp sensor is located. Had to remove the cowling around the rear and side of the engine to clean out properly. Just can't get it with air or water without removing the sheet metal. Have also had a bad sensor and_or wire grounding. BTW, this was during late fall when cutting corn. Rob.

 

[Bert]

What can you do if the fan isn't up to speed and are you talking about the cooler being plugged internaly (the oil passages)IJ Sebas I'm removing the shield ing around the cylinders so I can clean this area throughly also. Thanks Bert

 

[Bert]

What can you do if the fan isn't up to speed and are you talking about the cooler being plugged internaly (the oil passages)IJ Sebas I'm removing the shield ing around the cylinders so I can clean this area throughly also. Thanks Bert

 

[Rex]

Sebas, it has to be the conditions we run in. Edible beans are horrible on the fan, with it running in a dirt cloud 50% of the time. As far as using water to clean, air won't get a oil leak problem cleaned up. I agree that air only if your cleaning a dust build-up problem, but a oil leak and a recent oil line break that filled the engine compartment full of oil and chaff needs some more serious cleaning that just compressed air. Your lucky because fan replacement is not cheap but a fact of life for us. We also run a R-72 with the air cooled V-8 and have replace the fan in it twice (1400 seperator hrs). I agree the entire engine needs to be spotless, but in our crops,(wheat, edible beans, and corn) the fan is only good for 600 to 1000 hours. I might try to take a photo of the fan is the R50 now, it getting very close to replacement now (800 hrs) and show you the wear.

 

[sebas]

That pic will be very interesting for me. I only harvest wheat and corn, never harvest beans but i'm sure my dealer never replaced a fan from a deutz engine.

 

[Dan]

Only found one engine over the years that had fan not up to speed (other than the obvious belt missing or slipping) and that was a failed clutch. Clutch on your combine engine is feed full amount of oil all the time so fan should run up to speed no matter what exhaust temp is running. Only plugging I would think possible is the external plugging with dirt or dirt and oil if there is or was an oil leak.