Combines R50 front feeder wrapping

[acre_eater]

Do you have the antirap shields on covering the hex drive shaftIJ if you do they move freely on the shaftIJ

 

[gerald]

If you have the older drum at the drive end, do the upgrade to the newer gears and sheilds. We did the lower unit last year and didn't have one problem. Before that we had to stop ever hopper in peas or the chain would jumps. This year we are doing the upper drive drum. Side comment; wonder if anyone else has noticed a large jump in parts prices. We changes some rub bar a few years ago at $80cnd, this year the price is 160cnd each. Gerald, (if you can read this, long time since I posted to this site and not sure of the format. I was the fellow that blow the clyinder and cage out of the R50 last year)

 

[Dan]

Do you have the two separate sprockets with the loose shield inbetween themIJ When wraping drive shaft you should close up feeder opening to help prevent straw from getting inbetween top and bottom slats. I think what will help more than anything is to fill in area inbetween feed sprockets and square tube. You would need to remove chain and get yourself some 2x4" square tubing. Weld in tubing on the rear edge of square tube. We weld in on top only and all the way across. The newer machines all have that tube very close to sprockets and I don't find them wrapping. Another trick I had someone do onetime when he was wrapping shaft all the time in wet green corn is weld keystock to back side of a couple feed chain slats. That made a complete night and day difference for him. The keystock will help sweep the area inbetween the top and bottom slats. If you keep that area clean you will have lots less of a chance of wraping around the shaft. You ask why it does it. It would be nearly impossible to prevent any straw from slipping threw the slats no matter how many slats you have. The problem is mainly the square tube and the large gap inbetween the square tube and your sprockets. It would be nice to get rid of the square tube but you can not do that. The newer machines have a floor inbetween the top and bottom of the chain but still has some exposed square tube which material will come up against and build and built until it gets caught and goes threw. When it goes threw it can stall the chain or cause it to jump a cog. To help eliminate the affect of the square tube I would try the keystock trick to the back of slats. Another way to help eliminate the affect of square tube is to weld a panel to bottom of square tube and bring it forward toward top of tention drum. We use a 12" by whatever width your feeder is to taper the area in front of square tube. Be sure not to bring panel to high so top chain will be hitting it. I'm hoping that the simple keystock trick will be all we need to do but I have a few machines starting soon that have feeder extremly streamlined. Trying to make the reverser a non necessity in the worst of conditions. Good luck and let us know.

 

[Ed]

I have the solid tube with sprocket on outside. This wrapping problem started last year - had a couple incidents only with wet corn leaves prior to that. Couple times in some wet wheat straw last year and a lot of problems in soybeans. When the drive roller builds up like this the two chains will touch periodically - not a pleasant sound. The straw also gets down onto the shaft itself around the bearings where it cannot be removed and gets very hot. With 100 gallons of fuel in a plastic tank 12" away - well, if it goes, I hope the tank is fairly full so we can cremate Allis properly. I am going to try a few slats with keystock first. If I understand correctly, straw is carrying around this tube without being cleared away by the rear chain, falls through into the space behind that square tube and then is carried around between the chain and the drive rollerIJ So filling that space be be necessary.

 

[Dan]

Back side of slats are quite smooth and with chain moving at a pretty good clip the straw that has sliped threw will build and built. Eventially that straw will wrap on the drive roller or go threw as a slug which can stop chain or jump a cog. I would try the keystock on just a couple slats. Yes I think filling in the void between the sprockets and square tube would be good also. Yes I think that a non aggresive rear chain can increase the problem but I think is is mainly the straw that has got between slats before it got to rear chain. Also if have the chunks of iron welded to bottom of square tube I would remove them. They may have been welded in and they are for corn only. The newer machines have them chunks of iron bolted in so they can be removed and replaced for corn. We don't ever put them in for corn and have no problem yet.