Combines R50 header conveyor question

The auger has a clutch plate on the inside of the driven sprocket and on the outside and there is a ring inside the sprocket that keeps it centered. All are important. The auger has 2 belville springs, a third can be added to increase torque. The auger should be adjusted with bottom retarders and fairings so that the auger should not take so much power. The adjustments are in the op man. Also make sure the flighting has a 'lean ' in the direction of flow so as not to wedge the material against the bottom but rather lift it as it is conveyed.

Is the flighting and stripper extended to properly match the R50. This should be done neatly to prevent straw from snaging and coming around. Have you removed at least two if not up to five fingers from right side. They should be no fingers tring to shuve material in until beyond feeder opening. It is of the utmost importance to have smooth entrance onto extended flighting and stripper is neat with no gaps for straw to snag. Adjust and knock down filler inbetween header and feeder. Raise and remove a few extra steggered fingers for canola. Be sure slip clutch hub on auger drive shaft is not spining on shaft (lots of nuts not up to torque which ruins hub and shaft when key shears). Also very important to have rear draper on pickup attachment close enough to auger. Gleaner just used the rigid head without cutting parts for the dummy head. You may need to do whatever you have to to bring draper closer to the auger. Make a big difference how long the dead area is.

Yes, I have adjusted the head properly for an R50 opening. It had originally been off an R60 so I had to do all the above as mentioned. What do you mean by removing the filler between the header and feederIJ Are these the straw retardersIJ and the steggered fingers, what are theseIJ

OK make sure narrowing job is done neetly so no snagging straw. How many fingers did you removeIJ Depends what you mean on filler! On the floor just behind fingers there is a wear plate and it needs to be flush with floor in feeder and bottom of header. The other fillers cause the straw to move in beyond feeder flighting before allowing it to enter feeder. Also look at 4" flighting to see it screws the straw at least to opening into feeder. The short 2ish flighting helps this but 4" will work better. We go with 4" all the way to a center line of finger area on the rigid straight heads. Don't know if you would want to do on a pickup head and we haven't needed to. I think I covered the rest. Good luck.