Combines R50 hp

[tbran]

what do you mean -resealIJ We replace fan, push rod seals and or rings with head work with eng in the combine. This saves about 12 hours of work. Oil pump can be replaced w_o pulling pan as well. The bushing is about right, just make sure the nuts ABOVE the drawbolt will allow the idler to move DOWN to take up slack when belt is under power. Just curious.

 

[brad_c]

Can't remember the measurement on the nuts above the bushing but it seems like it is 3" or so. New gaskets is what i was referring to. The pan is seaping around the front. Brother just figured it would be easier to yank it and work out on the shop floor than in the combine. Think the pump is about due for a check upIJ (hour wise speaking)IJ Thanks for the info.

 

[tbran]

at 1500 rpm you should have 40+ psi on gauge, at full rpm about 60, it will peg at first start up in cold oil. I had my old 3000 hour R50 that has been touched a little start loosing pressure after we removed eng and replaced a rod, sleeve and piston and head. Injector tip blew off and little brother had the radio turned up listening to the Tn Vols and ......... well it wasn't pretty. After running wheat I noticed oil pressure dropping. We pulled blower hsg, front cover and pulley and replace oil pump. Now it runs 60 psi hot under load. I should have replaced it, but it did not look worn... go figure... at least it was not something more expensive or labor intensive. Front pulley bolt is a bear, lH thread and really torqued. long extention on bolt with 3_4" drive socket and block the teeth on ring gear and belt makes it a little easier.

 

[brad_c]

Thanks tbran for the time and info - it is greatly appreciated. Oil psi is great in the ol' girl. She'll run right @ 60 psi hot and under full load. I was refering to the fuel pump - sorry about the confusion - late night replies aren't a strong suit for me.

 

[tbran]

the inline is about bullet proof. The only problem we have run into repeatedly is the wire running to the pump that allows the control rack to go to full delivery and retard when the starter is engauged. They will not crank without this feature working if the eng is cold. This plus getting the auto ether working - about everyone I have seen is plugged - makes the engines very easy to crank unless you are up there where gawd never intended folks to live - like north of the mason dixon line -) It is funny , I call up Dan or Tom Hurtt and say "hey it's Tim" and they laugh - "gezz we could not have guessed" - I don't know why all you guys have to have such accents and awe so hawd to undestand....