Combines R52 rotor modifications

What model year is your R52IJ On an R42_52, I've never had any luck with removing reverse bars. You simply need them in in order to have adequate separation in high yielding corn. Generally, you should have enough power so that keeping the reverse bars in place won't starve you for power before you run into the limits of your cleaning system. For cob breakage, you can remove 4 of the rows of bars to help, but it isn't a cure-all either. Depending on age of your rotor, you might consider replacing it with the new CDF rotor which helps reduce the cob breakage a great deal, almost entirely. It will also handle tougher soybeans better. The extended bars into discharge are a must. If your machine is an '01 or later (I believe),then you already have them from factory. If you have the adjustable separator grate, use it. If you don't, or you have the older style with the narrower wire spacing, pull out every other wire to get to a 2" wire spacing; that will help your rotor loss considerably also. You may not have to go the the high_low style bars. I think that is a fine idea, but I would first direct my efforts at wire spacing and using the adjustable separator grate. Make sure your concave similarly has at least a 1.5" wire spacing. If it's the older style at 1", then pull out every other wire, at least in the back half of the concave. You can always install the filler bars for beans if you get some pods in the tank.

It's a 1995 model with around 1800 separator hours on it. When you refer to adjustable separator grate are talking about the adjustment on back side done from concave access door in engine compartmentIJ If so I have the adjustable separator grate. I believe it's the new style concave with wider openings. Currently are running full bars on all rows with reverse bars on every other row plus discharge paddles on all rows. Corn loss is minimal but have trouble with cob breakage on some varieties resulting in small cob pieces in grain tank. Have trouble on cetain beans with some cyl. loss.

The separator grate he is talking about is to the left of concave on belly of separator side. It was not adjustable until 1997. You should remove every other wire from it. When you remove wires you should install very short pan head bolts to plug holes from missing wires. Have the pan head on the side that flow will be contacting. If you want to convert a little closer to the present day high wider wire grate you can weld short pieces of wire on top of the existing wire. I use 3_8" wire but you may be better off with 1_4" wire in the heavy dudy corn soybean belt. If your concave looks the same as separator grate then remove wires and plug holes in similiar manner. If your concave has been replaced with newer high wide wire the wire spacing will be more like 1.5" not 1". Now take a look from engine compartment at the furthest left rasp on cylinder and then where the discharge paddle starts. The discharge paddle should not start until it is in the area directly ahead of opening to discharge beater or chopper. If the discharge paddle is still the long one it will be tring to discharge material threw cage material rather than into discharge. This will cause plugging and constipation so you need to extend cylinder bars to get material to area ahead of discharge opening. The helicals will not move material efficiently without the help of a forward rasp bar. Sounds to me you have a horrible amount of reverse bars in one area. If I were to use reverse bars I would not have any more than one spinning in any one location. The CDF could be different story with reverse bars with the reduced diameter. If it were me I would start out with as few reverse bars as you think you can stand. You can always add or remove fairly quickly later. Hope this helped you come up with your plan. Maybe some other guys will let you know there setup with this short rotor if you give it a little more time.