Combines R62 concave replacement suggestions

[R_O_M]

We had the same problem when we pulled the rods in the concave of a 94 R62. Use 5_16 or 3_8 by about 1" round headed bolts, the ones with the screw driver slot, allen key head or etc. Place round head to the front and use a flat washer under one or both sides and loctite. Totally fixes the problem. We actually used longer bolts in some sections of the concave to partially bridge the gap to the next bar and give some hold back effect from the full open gap, similar to and before JD's use in their rotary's concaves. Tedious to bolt in but when you have somebody around like" Rolf's Old Man", you give him the job! Cheers!

 

[Ken]

I would go for aftermarket, as they are as good or better and at a much better price.

 

[Bob_l]

We plugged our wire holes with 5_16 x 1 carr. head bolts with flange nuts. Smooth side to the front and flange nuts to the rear. All have stayed in so far

 

[T__langan]

AGCO has a kit that will eliminate that problem. It consists of plastic plugs that are inserted in the holes. We put the kit in our R52 this fall after reading about it on this board. It totally prevents straw from getting stuck in those holes. I wish I could provide you with the part n right off hand, but I didn't write it down. Perhaps tbran could provide you with that info.... Tom langan

 

[mailman13]

I understand the options about plugging the holes but I think the concave needs replaced from wear. So I guess the question is does a replacement concave from Agco come with the wide spaced wires therefore eliminating the extra holesIJ And how about aftermarket suggestions.

 

[R_O_M]

Tried the plastic plug kit. Very expensive to buy and quite a lot fellout within two seasons hence the bolts as above.

 

[ahbecalm]

Do you mean whiz nutsIJ We got a few dozen extras with a new GSI dryer. The flat contact surface has serations to grip like a star lock washer. Would also be a lot less tedious than locktight on each bolt.

 

[Bob_l]

Yep, whiz nuts. The lock surface takes the place of lockwasher or locktite and none have come out yet. Not near bout messy as locktight.

 

[NDDan]

You likely don't need a seperator grate unless you want to change it to cage material (loewen has them). later seperator grates were adjustable and could be removed from cage without cutting anything. You can get either hi-wide wire or narrow low wire chromed or not. Grain machines come with low narrow wire front and high wide rear. Corn machines come with high wide wire for both and no holes to plug. We use high wide wire for both even with the tough to thresh wheat. We have tailings return to cylinder on most all machines and install as many under mount concave filler bars as we need for the crop. We use all OEM but there are surely fine aftermarket out there. To pull concave remove filler tin just ahead of concave, remove front concave out of frame, pull pins for trap door and rest it on the stored irons under feed floor, pull hollow pins that trap drap door pins went threw, lift concave frame (being carefull for your fingers and back) into engine compartment. That sounded easier than it is but that is how you do it. Good luck