A question for Tbran! When harvesting aerial seeded clovers, ie Persian clover, is it neccessary to install the small seeds kit flow baffle in the upper fan ductIJ Both parts of the AGCO kit look like they are a pain in the a--e to install. I made our own fan sieve duct perforated baffle with a square pivot rod. The baffle could be slipped thru one of the oval shaped air gap inspection holes in the side frame which we extended a inch or so longer, then down thru the air gap in the lower fan sieve duct and the square pivot rod was then slid thru the pivot holes in the frame and thru the baffle pivot holes. The bottom baffle took about 5 minutes to install or take out. leaving this baffle in and folded up as reccommended for harvesting other crops gave us a lot of very fine chaff and dust in the sample, so it was very quickly removed . We never installed the upper fan duct baffle. It looked too hard. I just wish we would have had the info on setting up the thresher and separator now available from this site before we ever tried to harvest that semi green, leather like stuff! It would have saved us a lot of grief! Just for info, our pasture clovers in OZ are either subterranean clovers or Medics. The "subs" bury their seed pods just under the soil surface. The other dry area or semi desert type, called Medic [ from "Medicago" ] drops it's seed pods on the ground when ripe. With the subs we harrow or very shallow cultivate to bring the seed pods to the surface. We then use a specialised vacumn harvester, usually 4 to 7 feet wide, to suck the pods of both the subs and the medics off the ground which are then threshed and the seed rough cleaned by the harvester. Vast quantities of dust and dirt and time are involved. There was one of these machines sitting forlornly in the field plot area at Montana State Uni in Bozeman when I was thru there in 1990. Apologies for the lecture! Cheers.
. The instructions are pretty straightforward. One can drill out the upper air duct pop rivets. It is easy and scares most . Another trick is have an air choke extention rolled to match the fan radius and bolt it to the choke. The outter edge must be a 90 degree fold for strength. leave only an approx small 4 " opening to let air in but this is from memory. When this is done there MUST BE a stop bolt for the extention placed in each side of the combine wall. Otherwise the choke will be sucked into the fan . Trust me on this one. It ain't pretty. The reason for the baffles is the ability to adjust upper vs. lower air volume. Choking the air too much causes what someone in the know told me was 'vortexing' or swirling of air that leaves pockets of no air flow.