Combines r62 main shaft

I would say no. last Dec. I bought a combine with the bearing spun. I tore it down,and decided to have the machine shop do it. It was 100 compared to 1000.00 for the shaft.But dont forget that when it does break again,it could take out alot more then the shaft,plus you have to replace the bearings again.It lasted about 75 sep. hours then broke right where they built it up. My advice would be get the new one and fix it right. Illinois Gleaner P.S. someone told me they can build them up without heat,that might work.

Just an idea, instead of welding the spun spot and turning it down which seems to change the temper of the shaft, could you turn down the shaft and fit a sleeve there(hot sleeve on cold shaft sweat fit)and put the new bearing on the sleeveIJ Or would that weaken the shaft alsoIJ This might just delay the break also, I guess a day or two of downtime and lost time might be worth more than the new shaft. Is there a way to prevent or upgrade this areaIJ Does it happen more on the motor drive side or cylinder drive sideIJ Thanks

Just curious! How many operators throttle back the engine before engaging the machine or do you just drop her in at full throttleIJ We have always throttled back as the electric clutches, despite being very reliable and simple, with an almost instaneous engagement, really cause some extreme shock loads on the combine drives with the very rapid acceleration of heavy rotors and other components.

We also spun a bearing on main shaft on variable speed end. We had ours built up by a local machine shop. They used a procces called spray welding that uses very little heat and therefore does not change the temper of the shaft that was two years ago.Hope this helps.

I go back to idle all the time to engage the head. Thats a lot of iron going from a dead standstill to full speed fast. Its easier and safer in my mind to idle back.. Knock on wood, I've never had any problems with seperator clutches going bad either.

I let a novice have a drive after nagging me for a while .Explained everything thought he understood it and he had been driving it while i shifted bins and stuff anyway off he goes gets to crop throws her in at full throttle one hell of a bang one completely blown apart rotor gearbox cracked all the casting like someone hit it with a sledge hammer. So i always throttle back. Pengs5 and enjoying rain 8mm so far.

Ian, try max%hedt@n%etconnect.com.au. Take both the % out of this address. Max. H.

Always stop, deecelerate, engage separator, then engage header, look, listen, accelerate. Have never replaced a clutch or clutch shaft in a Gleaner since 1980. MH,N7 R72. Good luckIJ I call it making good luck.

We engage the seperator at idle and then leave it engaged as long as someone is in the seat. We just disengage the head if dumping, out of the wheat for a while moving across a field, etc. Then idle back and enage the head, then SlOWlY to full throttle. These computer controlled Cummins engines can go from idle to full-tilt in seconds. It is about as bad as engaging those clutches at full throttle. So, always bring her up to correct revs slowly. We have had main shafts built up in the past with no problems. I have also really marred a shaft up with a punch and then driven the bearing on with a little JB Weld under it in a pinch and they ahve run for years that way. Everybody gets bent out of shape over the JB Weld, but I always wind up cutting the bearings off of main shafts anyway. My $0.02, OKFarmer OH we have been really dry. We had 4.5 inches last night. Now we are really wet. :-(

Did your shop aneal the shaft (I think that is how you spell it ) Tim