Combines R62 rotor loss

[tbran]

I can tell you what our experience has been, whether it works for you only experience will help. We do use the F2 bars such as you mention but have found more aggressive bars such as a regular cylinder bar cut to fit in the separator grate channels will stop losses with only a fraction of the HP required by the reverse bars. The reverse bars roll and tangle the crop. The retarder system (of cylinder bars that give as low as 1_2" clearance)comb the crop and do not 'rope' as much. Your sep grate covers also remove the aggressive separation designed in for tough to separate crops. Before going back you could try bolting in some type of retard system. We also believe in the 'disruptors' as pictured in the hper mods section. These are chpper blades bolted in in lieu of 2 of the reverse bar locations. Others will have more input I would think. Finally you must also determine what is the exact loss. Your op man desribes the process. On a 30 ' head it is a bunch of grains per foot to = ONE bushel, 340 I think! Your loss may not be as bad as you think.

 

[R_O_M]

Here in Oz, we have "Blade" or "Chopper" bars. They have 1" to 1 1_4" high blades on about 3" spacings. Installed in the separator section, they were developed by Agco techs for very green strawed sorghum or milo crops in our northern subtropical regions. Their action is to tear up and chop up the straw mat to let the grain thru. We used them this year on our barley, wheat and lentils. We obtained them thru our normal AGCO dealer. Price, about AUD$180 per pair in Oz. Probably worth a try in your conditions. I think Rolf has photos for" Hyper Mods" when the site is updated by Tom.

 

[Harvester]

Sounds like the old 'cage fingers' from the N series. Very effective in green, damp straw. Still like to use them if we do a little milo. Work quite well.

 

[Rolf]

Harvester, the copper bars the Rom is talking about are attached to the rotor and rotate with the rotor, we started with two in the sep section but MOM (ROM) convinced me to put two more in the sep section and hey presto, rotor loss dropped dramatically in barley and lentils! also our rotor revs are very low in lentils 240-260 rpm so they also help to convey material as well. We also shimmed out our extended rasp bars closer to the cage and this has helped as well. Rolf

 

[Harvester]

Ahhh... more like the rotor blades or knives on the Massey rotor. Good technology also.

 

[NDDan]

I forget if the 2000's had the extended cylinder bars standard but if not get them installed. No luck with reverse bars then get them out of there. First hyper mod that would be no doubt is the extended third helical from gearbox over top left corner of feeder opening. Do you have hump on trap door to improve feed into cylinderIJ When you removed the wires from seperator grate did you plug all them 3_8" holes the wires had went threwIJ If you don't want to plug the holes you could purchase seperator grate made of cage material or put wires back into grate. If you put half or all wires back into seperator grate I would build ever other wire up flush with cross bars. If you only install half the wires you will want to plug holes without wires in them. If you build wires up flush you will have nice flat surface to fasten stationary rasp bar to. If you don't raise wires you could modify removed reverse rasp bar to set down onto wires. I'm not sure about fastening F2 bar or any other rasp bar on top of covers but I think it would work for you have the adjustable grate that you could adjust open further to gain some clearance. I will tell you this: Gleaner tech man was playing with a R75 out in Montana that was harvesting barley that was bone ripe on top of hills to green down in the valley. While custumer was satisfied with some loss in them great varible conditions the tech man thought he would see if he could improve. He did about any adjusting and setup of reverse rasp bars with very little luck until he installed a stationary rasp bar on seperator grate. He said he didn't only dry up loss threwout the whole field but machine run smoother. Next I would lean toward what Rolf and Max have done especially if you have no corn. You could make up shims to move some cylinder bars closer to cage. If you were to do this you need to pay special attention to clearance between spinning rasp bars and stationary rasp bars and or concave. The closer you run bars to cage the more positive flow of the green material and the thiner the mat of material. I have never needed to shim bars out and don't know if it will take power but I'm sure going to try sometime if I have a problem. I don't know how you could get a set of the blade bars like they have in Australia but you could get fairly close to duplicating what they do by shiming out bars and maybe cuting every other rasp out. Good luck

 

[tbh]

Rolf with the chopper bars installed do you also use the stationary rasp. Also, I would like to thank you and all the others who replied to my post. We have 3 of these machines all the same and plan on using everyones advice. Where we are from silver is not the color of choice, not even a dealer around here. We like these machines and I think we will like them even better once we apply the advice everyone has given us here. Thanks again!

 

[Rolf]

G'Day TBH at this stage no! we don't have the stationary rasp in the bottom, that's because we don't have the room to swing the chopper bars and a rasp bar on top of the sep grate! but we are looking at removing some cage material at the front of the sep section so as we get some room to lay a rasp or another chopper bar or something!!! to help more with losses!!! let us know on how you get on, so everybody can learn from this. Regards Rolf