Combines R62 with low voltage

[Hyper_Harvest_II]

Bluebeard,

 

[tbran]

right, and also check voltage on the OUTPUT side of the switch_solinoid that goes "clunk" when one turns the on the key. We have found that they break down with age and an input of 14V comes out 10V when clutches and lights _ AC _ fan _are engauged. The contacts become seared and heat up thus reducing amp carrying ability. Simple to check out- probe both sides of the big brass terminals with everything on. Should be the same.

 

[Dan]

First of all it is the rule of thumb that .2 volt drop accross a switch is acceptable when drawing max currant threw it. It is also accepted to have .1 volt drop accross a bolted together connection but normally will run less than that. To check the voltage drop accross a switch you can probe the leed going into switch and the leed leaving the switch when drawing max currant threw it. It is best to use digital voltmeter. With the voltage you resited at the master solinoid in the cab you must of probed the incoming voltage and the outgoing. With .25 volt drop it would have a tad more drop than general rule of thumb but is not your main problem. With the wires that you ran it sounds like you eliminated the ground connections and the main breaker back by the engine. The currant for your clutches after the master solinoid in cab has to go threw fuse block, rocker switch, and then safty molule. After it gets threw safty module it has to go threw brusholder. What it boils down to is you are going to have a volt or so less available at inlet leed of brusholder than you have at battery. I have found that you will have another volt or so less by time the voltage is threw the brusholder when it is feeding the dual clutch. Of course you can only check currant after brusholder without machine running so I would expect between 9 and 10 volts when battery is sitting at about 12.3 volts. If I were to bet I would bet that you are losing most of your voltage at the safty module. Brusholder could also be getting tired for it has to carry alot of currant and spins quite fast. Brusholder can sometimes check good when sitting still but you get it up to speed and things may goof up. So you see you need to trace or locate and check voltage at a couple more locations to find your major voltage drop. As a side note I would add that I do know of a couple machines that have a relay added down by clutch so they can run heavy wire direct from battery to it and then the only currant that has to go threw components in cab is a tiny amount to fire that relay. I have not sliped out any clutches yet but do like the idea of a relay to eliminate all the draw threw cab for the dual clutch. Hope that helps you out.

 

[johnboy]

We have also found in Australia that dust in the electric clutch can cause voltage problems,the clutch needs more power to hold in so we now blow that area down every couple of days and every-thing stays happier.If you stick compressed air into the plates you will be supprised how much junk will come out.john

 

[Bluebeard]

Thanks fellas for the time and effort spent steering me the right way. Yesterday, by phone, the dealer tried walking us step by step through the circuits and I was getting more and more confused. All three clutches were down in voltage, looked like it could be the seat safety interlock, so decided to get a serviceman out today. Turned out, as Dan mentioned, at every joint, fuseholder, brushcarrier, etc there were small voltage drops, nothing major in one particular spot. So he put a relay in for each clutch which bought them all up above 10.5v with engine off and I guess up another 1.3v which the batteries came up with engine running. So with a bit of luck we will be into the wheat in the next couple of days. Cheers.

 

[Dan]

let us know how you get along. I do believe you do have an abnormal voltage drop some where but shouldn't bother now the way you wired it up. Maybe you have a poor currant feed or ground for the safty part of the module which may not be holding the contacts within module together as tight as they should be. I believe the main ground for module goes threw the seat switch. I would imagine you have this under control but I just want to mention that you would need to portect the new circuits with a fuse at battery and to use sealed constant duty relays. I had a guy back in '96 that thought his seperator clutch was slipping so I had researched the currant situation and found quite a loss by time it got to clutch. I checked some other machines at that time and found them all about the same. There was no sign of clutch sliping and has been going well ever since. That was a new machine and I think maybe the brushes needed to just seat in a bit. It is important that brusholders don't get shook around to bad when running for that will cause the brushes to bounce at speed causing a poor connection. If there has been a poor connection at brushes it could of heated contact rings enough to melt into plastic which can cause them to go off center. If rings have gone off center the brushes could be bouncing in there. I have been standing by ready to install relay for seperator clutch especially on the 330hp machines. I had also thought about wiring in the dual brusholder from the small machines to reduce voltage drop across brusholder but I have not found it to be nessesary, maybe when they go to 400hp. Best of luck to ya.