Combines Raddle Chain question

[baldwinman]

I'm not sure if this is the way the dealer mechanics would do it but on our l-2 we supported the feeder house with heavy stands and then unhooked the lift cylinders from the front of the combine and let them rest on the floor As far as cobs are concerned I think you might be running your raddle chain to loose. Remember to change the front idlers even if it don't look like you need to. You'll be glad you did. Its easier when you have it all apart.

 

[ewbeye]

Back when I was 24 yrs old, I did replace a raddle by myself, once. Put it on top of the throat lift cylinders - one end at a time, then tied a rope around it and fed the wrope over the top of raddle floor around the drive shaft and then back down again to the lift cylinders. Slowly pulled on the wrope with one hand and fed the chain up into the top with the other. Now, I'm 42 yrs old and wiser - it is really a two man job. Get yourself some help and make sure you're installing it in the right direction if it is a Z slat bar type. Before you install the chain, check your drive shaft and drive sprockets for wear. If the sprockets are cupped any - replaced them. To replace your sprockets, you will have to completely remove the shaft. Inspect the shaft for cracks, stress fractures, and slop in sprocket roll pin holes. If its worn, replace it. Make sure the new sprockets get attached properly. They need to be in time with each other. Baldwinman is right. Replace your idlers and use them to set the correct tension on the raddle. Replace your idlers at the beginning of each year and check them regularly as the chain will loosen up with use. I open the inspection doors on the upper side of the raddle and pull up on the chain. At its tightest, the top of the chain should at least come up to the bottom edge of the door opening. At its loosest, the bottom of the chain should not come up more than the bottom edge of the door opening. If so, then re-tighten idlers, run it, and watch how it tracks on idlers. If it runs to one side, then you may need to tighten the opposite side a little or loosen the high sideIJ Keep both sides consistent on tension, check it regularly, and you should get 10 years wear out of it. Also inspect your raddle floor for cracks, thin spots, and broken corners, etc. If needed, repair or replace it before you put in a new raddle chain.

 

[BenM]

Have the same problem with my F2. Slip clutch is not hard to change, it's all external; you may need a cob sheild at the rear of the raddle to avoid cob pinching. As well, have the cylinder set so that only whole cobs pass over the raddle, since these have less of a chance of getting pinched than do smaller pieces. Raddle must be tight and slip clutch properly set and walkers should be fully forward to aid in moving material away from the raddle. Having said that, some have had better luck with the walkers fully rearward to prevent cob and cob pieces from bouncing off the front of the walkers and back into the raddle chain drive area. Also helps if cobs and corn is dry- the cobs will break rather than remain between the raddle slat and the false bottom. It is a real pain to unplug the raddle, having done it several times last harvest. Try feeding the chain in on a slight angle, it is not that hard of a job, just make sure it is staght when finished as previous posters have advised. Ben.