Combines raddle chain

I had the bottom start to crack and then fall out

How big a job is it to replace,do you have to remove cylinder houseing,about how much does bottom cost.

I think if I remember right (we replaced them both ways) and the easiest way is to take it in and out from behind. We made some special tools to spread open the sides for the new panel. We also had heavy duty bottom custom made from the original. Make sure the one you get is perfectly straight, if not it will wear in the high spots! Make sure you adjust the chain and idlers evenly and often and they should last a long time. We run dry beans so they don't quite last as long. On our F2, the raddle chain slip clutch went off becaus it was wearing through and caught in the back where the chain goes back around. We cut the piece out to get us through the season though. They are expensive! I think we have a couple heavy duty ones left. The hardest part is to line up the holes. We have an axial-flow now(still kept the Gleaners),but I still feel that the raddle chain is a better system. let me know what you find out.

Remove the steel curtain hanging above the raddle chain.lower cyl. and inncrease cyl. speed to grind straw more if you can without cracking beans.

1 other thing=be sure the beater above cyl. has speed up sprockets.

Do you have the 3_8 rods that extend from the back of the concave over the top of the front raddle chainIJ The rods should be adjusted down almost touching the front raddle chain by the idlers

Check your cylinder bars if they are worn turn or replace them. Had this happen a few years ago on our l2 turn the bars and never stopped again