Combines removing rotor questions

Yes,go ahead and push the boards up against the tank. Then put a large pipe accross the boards and let it set up against the tank also. Turn the rotor so the impeller blade are flat to make them sit in the loader bucket. Hook a single line comealong to the pipe and then hook the other end to the rotor. If you have a specialty rotor you can hook it to a rasp bar mount. If you have a standard rotor I would rap a small chain around the rotor then to the hook. If you have smooth seperater bars on a standard rotor you'll have to either double rap the chain or make sure your rear kicker bars are still in place so the chain dont slide of the back of the rotor. That would'nt be good. Now, the cable will rub against the sharp edge of the rotor cage. If you can, try to put a piece of plastic or something smooth and slippery around the sharp edge. A small piece of large pvc cut in half should do it. Use what ever is available to put on the concaves to let the rotor slide. I use two pices of thin plywood. One will kind of stick to the rotor as the rasp bars dig into it, and the other piece usually wants to stick to the concaves as the cross bars dig into it. Then they slide agaist each other and out comes the rotor, hopefully. Its allways worked for me but there are always other ways that work just fine too. Sice you're alone and have a front end loader, I would slide the rotor out till it balances at the edge of the concaves, set the front support plate and impeller blades into the bucket and hook a chain onto the rotor as far back as you can then hook the other end to the top of the bucket. Then unhook the comealong and use the loader to finish removing it. Of course I dont know how big your loader is so just make sure its big enough to handle about a thousand pound rotor and keep in mind that the weight is out there a ways so dont skimp too much on the chain size either. Also dont let the loader bucket edge dig into the front rotor cone. It will dent it. Again, I'm only assuming alot of stuff as to what tools and equipment you have on hand so you'll have to kind of adapt as you go. What else are you planning to do while your at this stageIJ

Thanks for the reply. Tools and equip on hand. double cable comealong various chains basic set of handtools JD 7510 with 740 loader (just picked up a 2800 n JD 619 engine for reinstall today.rotor should not be a problem) It is a standard rotor with serrated sep. bars. I have a med chain hooked into one of the sep bar bolt openings. I will add the pvs and extra support pipe. I tried to lay 2x4's on the concaves but are too thick. I will round up the plywood (good idea). Reason for coming out: When I free spin, it always wants to stop with the impellers flat (only have 2) It will rock to that point. Also at 1000 rpm in wheat it will give a vibration, so want to check the upper drive hub. I am contemplating the idea of having it balanced it Quincy at Richards Elec. Motor (25 mi away) to remove all doubt. before that point I am going to replace the impeller wear bars and clean out all the back plates of the cyl. and sep. bars.

Great, sounds like you're all set. If you use the double line comealong, make sure it has enough travel. It would kind of suck to get half way there and have to figure out how to rehook. If the rotor has many hours on it and you have it out, you probably ought to rebuid or replace the drive hub since it is on your list of stuff to check. If you do rebuild or replace it, make sure you use new american made grade eight bolts to secure it with. Dont use import bolts, they bend and break too easy. I imagine you'll also check the rotor gearbox output shaft seal. If its wet with oil, its an excellent time to replace it. If its dry, thats even better. Just make sure you be extra careful when working with this by yourself. If you can, let someone know what your doing so they can call you at a set time our you can call them to check in. let us know how you do.

Yes the gearbox was another thing I was going to look at. The machine has 3060 eng hrs and I believe the drive hub was replaced at 1700 hrs. It could be close to needing it again. After haveing to go thru replacing the engine I want everything to be in the best shape I can have. I will go the local plumber to get a piece of heavy pvc for a wear surface. Too bad I haven't fiured out a way to attach a block and pulley. I will try make the double cable into a single, as I was thinking of the rehooking. Any ideas as to why it would always stop spinning with the impeller flat, no matter which sideIJ I will let you know how it comes.

No matter which sideIJ Now thats a new one. Have ta think about that for minute.