Combines ROM or Rolf

R_O_M

Guest
Hi dustyr72. Your info is very good. Yes, we made our axle pads out of the the common white, 15 to 20 mm thick solid nylon type kitchen cutting boards that you can buy at any super market for a few dollars. The plastic wear plates have not been touched since they were installed a half dozen years ago. I have used this board on a few steel to steel wearing faces and it lasts for years. Can't recall exact dimensions without looking at the combine but we used about 1" thick steel, tapped to take the large axle adjustment hold-in bolts as the mounting plate for the plastic wear plate. This steel plate then served in place of the usual nuts for these bolts. Maybe use some loctite to ensure the bolts don't come loose although we have never had any problems. The front face of the steel plate was tapped to take 2 of 1_2" [ or 3_8" ] bolts. The plastic wear plate cut to size from the cutting board, was drilled and then roughly countersunk with a large drill to match these tapped holes to enable the plastic wear plates to be attached to the heavy plates with high tensile counter sunk bolts which we made sure were well below the wearing face of the plastic plate. Any space adjustment is done by putting a few sheet metal shims between the plastic wear plate and the steel plate. Very approximate material required; a solid plastic cutting board, 2 of 1" x 5" x 8" steel bar or thereabouts in size, and 4 of 1_2 x 1.1_4 [ or 3_8 diam or 1" length ] HT countersunk bolts. A bit of messing around to get the right fit and clearances is required. CostIJ should be well south of US$50. Rolf can round up the dimensions of the materials if you want them but it is very simple to make and the clearance between the frame and the pad on each side should be a bit less than 3mms. The pads come up against the frame when the turning loads are placed on the axle. They then take these loads off the central pivot tube which has been known to fail when the pads are not installed. Hope this gives you a starting point for the job. All the best.
 

dustyr72

Guest
Hi ROM, I did not relalize that one was needed for each side. A combine wrecker in Saskatchewan has a R72 that the back axle broke off,don't want mine to suffer the same fate! You've cleared it up . Perfect starting point, now I have to go get a tap big enough for those big bolts.Thank you kindly!!!
 

R_O_M

Guest
Should have mentioned; rear axle has a bit of fore and aft clearance and movement in the pivot so make sure the axle is as far back as possible when measuring up the thickness required for the pads. Good luck and Cheers!
 

Ed_Boysun

Guest
Why do you want to thread the holesIJ They're just stamped on my factory set. I do have an extra (brand new) set laying around that I would sell. Ed in MT
 

johnboy

Guest
The ones we run have the holes threaded as there is no room for the nuts.The wearpad covers one hole, also we had to machine the round spacers down a little.Cracked axel pivots are not fun. Take care while doing this job as my hand was crushed replacing the rear axel due to mis- comunication and a second's worth of inattention. This was over five months ago and the hand is still not quite right.
 

Rolf

Guest
I will get some picture of Roms rear axle wear pads in the next couple of days as Im about to pull the old girl (header)(Combine for our Northen counter parts!!) out of the shed sometime this week! Rolf
 

dustyr72

Guest
Rolf, Can you post them here or send them to meIJ Thanks very much!!!