Combines rotor balance and Hyd questions

Without observing the shake first hand, I can only guess at it. If you do any windrowed stuff that may be tough and ropey, or if you have a rock and stone problem, First place I would check is for any broken or missing rasp bars. Then I would check the rear of the rotor to see if maybe the drive hub bushings have failed. You dont have to pull the rotor to get an idea of the condition of the bushings. With the rotor in neutral take a pry bar and stick through the rear grate and pry up and down on the rotor. Do this in a few spots, if it feels loose or makes any noise when prying, they're probably gone. Or the bolts have bent or worked loose. There is really no way to properly diagnose the shake over the internet. But before you add weight to try to balance it, definatly make sure the drive hub is in good working order or you'll be chasing the shake for a long time. Without more info on the hydraulic symptems, like, what procedures have you done to find the problem so far, I would'nt where to start.

i replaced my elephant ears on my 1660 this winter with aftermarket ones and I was worried about my rotor being balanced. My rotor caused some vibration with it set at 1000 rpm but was not noticible at around 750 rpm. If you take the front inspection panel off to get to the elephant ears and spin the rotor slowly and it stops, then the rotor is balanced enough. But if it starts to turn back the other way after it stops then it is probably too much out of balance. If it didn't do it last year, then rust may have built on the inside of the rotoron the bottom of it during the winter. Take a hammer and tap it on the side to dislodge it and see if that cures your problem. Also, my 1660's auger slows down a lot when I'm turning, but I don't think the pump is going out