Combines rotor loss in milo

[Harvester]

For milo only, you can try using the cage fingers once used on the N's. They worked very well for cutting rotor losses in milo, but just make sure to remove them before doing corn or other crops. To me it's a little easier than worrying about wire removal and taking out rotor to add knives, although the knives are bound to be of great help in soybeans and high moisture corn.

 

[marv]

We lost a lot milo when first got our r60 then replaced the accelator rolls that solved the problem. thanks marv

 

[marv]

We lost a lot milo when first got our r60 then replaced the accelator rolls that solved the problem. thanks marv

 

[NDDan]

I had a couple of them bars a couple days ago but gave them to a guy that would like to give them a try. I got them from a dealer that got them from an Aussie friend. I have P_N but I believe that Aussie number was no good hear in the states. You can get close to the same thing by shiming out some seperator bars. I would likely do two or four in row A. And or a couple in row B. If you do row B be sure to remember that a couple rasps will need to be trimed if you adjust closer than 3_8". I would use 3_8" flat bar. Use strong longer bolts and torque things up. I have heard the cover kit (cage material) works on the older non adjustable grate and I believe it is for two reasons. One is it reduces thickness of mat of material and two it prevents seperator grate from mating over and or starting the material rolling. Guys with adjustable seperator grate have reported good results with tightening it up and better yet with the less aggresive high-wide seperator grate option. You can purchase adjustable or rigid seperator grates from loewen to replace the grate material with cage material. If you don't pull wires from seperator grate when installing covers it could and likely will plug inbetween the two. If you don't plug the holes where wires wemt threw cross bars you will end up with similiar problem. I have raised wires in many seperator grate by welding wire pieces on top of wires at every other wire and that also helps prevent straw from rolling. Sometime I will get my rotor sweeps into green milo for they will keep material flowing but I still wonder if you would get the job done by shimming out some bars. Good luck

 

[hunter]

I have made knives that I put in the sep. side at the 2 oclock and another set at 8 oclock positions. They did help some but not that much and I came close to slugging the machine more times than I want to remember. Took alot of power too. loss is comeing out of the rotor not the shoe.

 

[Harvester]

Try the original N cage fingers. They shouldn't protrude into the cage that far, and their intent is specifically to reduce rotor losses and won't really affect shoe performance.

 

[NDDan]

I tried punching in the number I have from Australia for chopper bars and it came up no good. Maybe a good welding shop could build up every other rasp on some 3_4" rasp bars to give a try. That would closely simulate chopper bars also and may work better than shimmed out bars. I know it is common sense but I forgot to mention in other post if shimming out bars be sure not to raise seperator grate to high. One should always pull over cylinder by hand a full turn after any adjusting. I forgot to ask just what machine you have. Is it new enough to have the extended cylinder bars or did they get installed and does it have the adjustable high wide wire seperator grateIJ Catch ya later.

 

[hunter]

I have a 99 R 62 it has a adjustable sep. concave but it has a narrow wire spacing 1_2 inch space between wires. High wire or low wire how do you tellIJ The bars will be extended before this years harvest.

 

[Sando]

Here in NE Australia where sorghum (or Milo if you like) is our main crop we battled cylinder loss for a long time. We built our own "paddle" bars to start with and about four versions and a couple of years later Agco started making some commercially. All we did to start was weld in some "extentions" about 3inches apart on a forward rasp bar made out of 1_4" flat to make a paddle to just clear the helicals but with a tapered leading edge. We thought we wanted to keep the material moving around in the cage but without shredding it to pieces. To start with we had a couple of the modified bars in each row but in the end I think we just had 1 each in the two separator rows but opposite each other. They did work. Installing the grate cover also helped. After that though we discovered that a dose of roundup on the crop a couple of weeks before harvest dried the crops up and all those loss problems went away. We could also harvest weeks before we could without spraying because it dried down quicker. I have a heap of these paddle bars here that I don't use anymore although freight may be a little high back to the states. I could get some pictures if people wanted. Cheers, Sando

 

[Rolf]

G'Day Sando I understand that you know a bloke that sat in the fan area in up under R series Combine while it was running in Milo! is that trueIJ and did he have to de-itch himself very muchIJ and did he fine that problem that was up in there!!!!!!IJ I couldn't resist asking as it's one of those things that Gleaner pilot's go to to fine a solution to a problem!!!! (Grin!!) Rolf PS: I think I have to thank you for getting me started on this site and getting our R62 Hyperized, as I think it was you and a couple of others that were one of the very first Posters on this (Gleaner) site back in 97 or 98!!!!