Combines rotor rear hub bushings

[gcnehring]

yes its possible. tapped holes in rotor

 

[striker782]

You need to remove the feeder house and pull out the rotor to access the hub. Be sure and get the new style parts and reinforcing ring that tie all the bolts together for more strength. If you haven't ever pulled a rotor, ask for more info and be safe!

 

[robmgrig]

I had all the boldt break in my hub this fall on a 1660. Pulled the rotor out, repaired and put back in in 7 hrs. It was my first time to pull the rotor. if you have to pull the rotor out halfway to get to the hub, you may as well pull it out all the way. It's not any more difficult and it will make the repair much easier and faster. You can have the whole rotor out faster and easier than if you take off the grates. We used a bucket on a front end loader to pull the feeder off and then the rotor. It's much easier with a loader than if you have to block up the feederhouse.

 

[Rotor_Man]

Yes,totally remove the rotor,it's easier and faster. As the other stated,install the longer bolts and reinforcing ring to make the bolts much more durable when harvesting tough crops. The easiest way to remove_install the rotor is to remove the plate above and ahead of the rotor gear box. attach a light chain to the kicker bar at the rear of the rotor and pull it with a ratchet cable hoist. I use a long pipe (2 inch or larger) set on wood blocking at the right and left sides of the engine compartment door to protect the paint and make a strong attachment for the ratchet hoist. Snug the hoist up good and unbolt the front rotor suport,you can leave it on the rotor. Release the ratchet hoist slowly with a pair of 1 by 4 boards between the rotor and concaves so it has a smooth surface to slide on. let the rotor slide about 1_2 out of the machine,then use a forklift or front end loader to remove it from the machine. A chain from the mid point of the rotor to both corners of the loader bucket or forklift mast with the nose of the rotor in the bucket makes a fairly stable device to remove_install that rotor. Putting it back in is the reverse of removing it. You may need to get a pry bar through the rear grate to lift the rotor onto the gear box shaft. Good luck,and do not let anyone below or in front of the rotor while it is on the ratchet hoist. A forklift makes a good device to remove the feeder housing.Good luck,be safe.

 

[dingo]

Thanks for your help fellas, I ended up sliding the rotor out about a foot and holding it with a come along,kept loader bucket in front just in case something let go,I removed the hub and bolts through the cover above the gearbox, seemed quite simple. The bolts and bushes actually slid out of the hub leaving the hub on the drive shaft,had to tap the hub off, looking at the bushes it was only getting about a half inch bite on the hub, seemed they worked out somehow, ordered the kit with the metal ring which would eliminate this from happening again i m thinking.

 

[Wind]

Don't know if the kit includes new bolts, but if not make sure to put all NEW in. The movement and having been troqued already will make them come loose easier. Always replace them.

 

[rod]

Probably too late to say this, but if you park the combine with the back end in a ditch or on a hill the rotor will go back in a lot easier. It the rotor cage is level or sloped to the back, then you are not fighting gravity to get it back in.