Combines SCH and 800 head

[Mike]

We broke a few heads and consulted SCH directly. He suggested loosening all the guards a bit then turn over by hand then tighten. Haven't broken one since. Make sure you have the HD drive head and that you have the up_down adjusted correctly on the drive. Other than that we have replace 5 sections or so and maybe 2 or 3 guards over 4 years on a 30' head. When we bought this head new it was set up with Tiger jaws. We tore them off and junked them for the SCH. No comparison. Throw the raised feather sheets away and invest in 3" suction hose. We've had both and the raised sheets are better than std, but not as good as a head with the hose mod. Cut a 2" deep piece off the feed auger on each end. Maybe 4" long. This will allow tyou to bring the reel back another 2" inches without destroying the end panels and will make a world of difference.

 

[Silver_Shoes]

Everyone regardless of color around here has complained about the job they are doing on short green beans, they are a pain. I just wanted to comment about that. I myself am no help when it comes to them, Our guys just seem to drive a little slower letting the sickles have another wack at them. Yup it can and probably will cause some clumpy feeding without an air reel or a full finger auger. That is a primary reason we got the air reel years ago, admittedly we try to keep it running in the greeny beans. I guess you could get your dealer out there and have him look at it and if he doesnt help, tell him to call the Big Oranges boys and have a chat with them about your distess. Do you always have these beans or is it something that happens on certain years, such as drought or freeze damaged beans. We had decent rains this year for beans so I can say the heads are for the most part working very well.

 

[Silver_Shoes]

10-4 good advice

 

[NDDan]

Make sure sickle and guards are sharp. Get the larger thread head and mating piece. Maybe most important is to install new left hand skid plate and A frame stibilizer. SCH seems to pull heavier in the tough cutting so it causes skid plate that also holds wobble box to bow. The head will not take the bending. I've also welded a piece of I believe 1_4" keystock to stiffen top strap of head. This should prevent the break from starting at weld on top strap. I know some guys have installed Gleaner head also. They had to do a little drilling or something to make them fit. Most important to get rid of the flexing first. Is problem all the way across headerIJ Head must be perfectly level to ground in them tring conditions. Might want to think about bringing reel back further. To allow reel to come back further you would have to trim flighting at both ends to clear heads of reel end sheets. If material is stalling just ahead of auger and building forward until reel can drag it in you should look at rear feather sheet hold downs. I would be tempted to remove half the bolts and champher front edge hold down iron. You could maybe try a sample area to see if you are on the right track. Hope something does the trick for you.

 

[R_O_M]

94 year 500 series header. We had serious problems with droughted barley stalling at the feather sheet hold down strips and not sliding under the auger. Hold down strips are a couple of inches behind a full length frame member under the sheets. Sheets were removed and a very short 1" long double fold made at the rear of the sheets to bring rear of sheets to the same level as the top of hold down strips. A piece of 1_4" thick steel strip was bolted with countersunk bolts to the frame member to provide full length support under the folded part of feather sheets. Hold down strips and sheets are bolted back in usual position. The sheets now step up over the strip on the frame and give a nice flat flow over the hold down strip, right through under the auger.

 

[mo]

Very clever ROM. I removed the strips. Flipped the sheets end for end, drilled new holes spacing them to the outide of the sheet so the old holes were hidden under the front cover_tansition piece_thing-a-ma-jig. In other words space the sheets forward. Then I used pan head bolts. So far there has been no cracking problem with the sheets. In one place the hole moved so I used the oblong bit and a fender washer which did not seem to cause a feed problem. The turned sheets changes the wear pattern on my worn sheets. On the other hand cracking at the bolt holes may be a problem down the row. How fast does the fan on your wind system turnIJ What presure does it generate at the nozzlesIJ Mine is about 10K and 12 inchs of water presure. I've discovered that the power required by the fan increases as the output restriction is decreased. One day the reel jumped out and ate the hose to the front. I kept going until repairs could be made. The increased torque then ate some elderly belts. Apparently when the fan is completely restricted it "stalls" and requires less power. SOOO use the throttle butterfly if the hose goes. Also mounted a old rotatary radiator screen over the fan intake and it works great. We cut out the rear panel on the head and put in 1_4" hardeware cloth to decrease the dust storm in front of the cab. It helps with the feed and the dust storm but not to the exstent that I anticipated. I left a diagonal strip in each section of the cutout for strength.IJ Good luck down there__.

 

[Harvester]

Make sure you have the reel finger timing so that the tines are curled back toward the header. This is the easiest thing to do to improve feeding and should be the first place you start. That adjustment will help to carry the beans slightly longer toward the auger.

 

[GreaTOne_65]

I changed my 500 over to the SCH this year, installed the hose 3 years ago, I had the best luck cutting beans this year that I've had since the head was new. Just my $.02 Dale SCMI

 

[R_O_M]

Thanks moonshine. Our header air manifold and fan setup are in Hyper Mods- Heddy's [ Rolf Hedt's ] header Mods. We measured pressures and flow rates a long time ago but I can't remember them just now. The rotary basket, which is the same principle as Agco's radiator basket, on the fan is available here in Oz as a separate item. Drives are straight off of the splined coupling on the elevator. The configuration of the sliding gal tube air duct allows a large range of duct adjustments with minimum tube movements and with the off centre location allows visibility of the elevator but also gives more even air distribution in the manifold than an end feed. Did a lot of work on fans when building a vacumn pasture seeds harvester in the 1980's. Fan laws! as they are known. 1 _ Double the flow rate requires double the HP. 2 _ Double the pressure requires 4 x HP. 3 _ Double the fan revs requires 8 x HP [ doubling fan revs = doubling flow rates and doubling pressure = 2 x 4 = 8 ]. Centrifugal fans can be fully throttled or choked both before and after the fan and the HP will change according to the flow and pressure changes. Flow through fans, which work on a different principle ie. Agco combine fans, can not be throttled or choked after the fan. They build up pressure until they run out of HP or wind themselves up into an expensive knot. That is the reason for the open slot in the top of the sieve air duct. It allows flow and pressure release if the sieves get totally blocked. It must always be kept open and clean. We looked at your idea for our feather sheets but as the sheets carry a fair bit of the weight of the knife bar we we were worried about cracking around the bolt holes as you said so went the way outlined. Apologies for the long post. Cheers!

 

[venturis40]

after i broke my first head i installed the larger drive pulley for 3" sections there is also an even larger pulley for those of us with hyperspeed havent broke one since august wieser rosholt, sd