Combines SCH ON THE UNDERSIDE

I can't seem to post this in a separate thread. We have a White 2600 (R62) that has trouble feeding green soybeans into the rotor. It will kick the cluth out and we have to stop and reverse the feeder house and then start again. Any settings that we can change...this has been an issue since we got a Gleaner and nobody seems to tell us what the issue is. Thanks for the help. Matt

I have been looking at the SCH site in the "attachments". The system looks very interesting but I suspect that we would still suffer the usual losses caused by the shattering effect of the 3 inch wide knife guards in our hot dry conditions while harvesting our lentils. 1-1_2" knife guard spacings minimise this shattering effect in lentils but are prone to blockages from soil clods or small stones. So the question is; Why are we stuck with the historical 3 inch knife guard spacingsIJ Why is it that some smart manufacturer has not come up with a 2 inch spaced knife guard and knife sections or some other combinations, that can be retrofitted to our present knife bars to cover alternative crop requirementsIJ Cheers!

HElP!!!! I cannot log onto this site; I have to post under an existing post. What did I do wrongIJ Ben

we are using the following combination to reduce shatter.crary goldcut guards (3"between long points with short centre stub),qwick cut sections(double point sections at 1 1_2 spacing),goldcut clips with nylon wears strip).take knife head and machine threads another inch. this will allow you to adjust section register with one long point and centre stub.this is important so crop can enter guard.

Double click "Feedback" and send Marvin an email. I suspect he can get things straightened out for you so you can post on here.

Thanks Kernal. We did almost exactly that about 3 or 4 years ago with some aussie made guards [ "Adapta-gaps" ]. It was the only way to decrease shatter losses at the knife in lentils. Makes me glad to see great minds think alike!! Cheers.

We don't harvest lentils in our part of Canada so I can't answer that. I will say though that necessity is the Mother of invention and a farmer will come up with the solution if the manufacturers listen. Where we harvest edibles the 3" work well with air reels. Several years ago most combines went to the 1.5" but had problems if you got into any amount of grass. Now there are very few Kwik cut around. later Dave

Strange how you can post on the alert, settings, etc. section

Matt, I'm not much of an authority on Gleaner combines, as I'm sure there are other here that have the correct advice. With that said I can tell you how I have my R-62 set at and the only place I have any problems are at the header auger. One of the first things I was told to do was set the feeder house (the belts on the right side of the feeder house) in the fast speed and leave them there for everything. The next best thing was to install the shock kits on the feeder house drums. My combine is a '95 and installing the shocks is quite a task, but well worth it. The only other issue I had was with the stone door, so I changed it to the rock trap and I haven't had to stop in the middle of the field to shut that thing since. BTW, Matt where in AZ. are you locatedIJ I have been lucky enough to have been able to spend the last 4 winters in the Valley of the Sun! I hope someone can help you, these guys on here are terrific trouble shooters.

Hi Matt, Dave had some good questions for you over in settings. We have went a very long way at improving feed chain system. First you need to check the basics. If you have corn varible be sure gap is correct between the front sheaves. Check tention of front right feeder belt and be sure tention arm is free to pivot at grease point. That early of a machine needed that belt tention watched very close for if belt stretched a little a nut and washer under spring anchor would stop belt from self tentioning (we cure that by shortening sping length guide and running belt a touch tighter). You also need to check belt to rear of that one to see it hasn't stretched enough for idler arm to come up against a stop which prevents belt from self tentioning (when we find this and belt is still fine we cut away stop a bit. Check to see front feed corn strippers are not bolted onto bottom of square torque tube just ahead of front feed sprockets. Also be sure rear feed corn stripper just ahead of drive sprockets is not installed. like Dave wondered (we need to know if front feed has a divider floor (with cover off of top of feeder housing can you see all the way to floor where straw flows). We run drum stops in grain position for all crops but you must have feeder shocks (feeder shocks are a must do and are the biggest improvement we made to feeders until lately). Filler across top left of feeder to extend third helical from gearbox across can help a bunch (Gleaner calls it helical wedge kit). Now I'll mention a few other things I have done: Replaced hex head bolts in feeder with pan head to prevent a restriction, Welded in filler pieces or straw diverters in front of square corners both in front feed and rear feed, Installed a floor flush with bottom of square tube in front feeder inbetween and to outside of wear pads for chain, tighten rear feed a bit tighter than specs, Install the faster feeder house pulley on front right of feeder, Install hump on the flat rock door or fingers over the sump if you must have sump system, Installed anti-bow up bracket in rear feed to prevent chain from bowing up to far and losing control of straw (tightening chain a bit extra helped prevent this),Make sure you have the heavy feed chain tention springs, Install the posi-feed roller from Australia (being made by loewen),Tilt rear 30" of front feed floor down 3_4" at very rear and tilt front of rear feed down 1" at very front. Install steep pitch helicals on thresher side or install steep pitch helical to second helical from gearbox to hook it up with feeder corner filler and extend third helical from gearbox with steep pitch helical to get it to drop material onto seperator grate, Install rotor speeps, I've even welded paddles on chain like the Manchester force feed. Best thing you could do is check and remove or install the simple things and be sure shocks are on. Posi-feed drum may help a bunch and isn't hard to install. All this stuff helps but with all this stuff you increase speed so one thing leeds to the next and so on. I don't think I could of posibly forgot anything!!!!! Good luck