It would be nice to know what actual percentage of yeild you are losing. Doesn't really matter if you want it better though. First I'll tell you a little story about seperator grates. Jobber company makes seperator grate kits to weld into P1 machines. P1's had cage material. P1's are used in N5, N6, N7,R5, R6, R7, and R60-70 prior to 1990. These separator grates worked fine on custum wheat run until they got up north. When they got up north the rotor loss went out of control. Seperator grates had to be removed and cage material reinstalled. Now we are talking about old P1's and they had very large gap from cross bar to cross bar on these jobber grates (like 6" I believe) plus the cylinder bars are much less aggresive as compared to P3 bars. Now with that in mind I had a R72 that the guy was losing more barley than he wanted. We had installed up to 8 reverse bars with no noticable improvement. We then installed the seperator grate cover kit from Australia and it cured the problem. Seperator grate must of been rolling the straw which traped the seeds. We had then installed lots of seperator grate cover kits. These cover kits are made of cage style material. I had loewen manufaturing make covers to fit all the various machines. I had them make them with countersunk hardware and chromed. Now after alot of years I started just welding wires onto every other wire to bring wire closer to level with top of cross bars. Gleaner has high wide wire grates these days and we order all our machines that way. loewen has replacement sections to switch out the seperator grate completely so cage material section can be installed. I don't find in our part of the world and our crops that we need seperator grate especially with such low wires. I don't leave bars off or install gussets in our area and I believe that and half height bars are good mainly for corn areas. With that said I do not think the missing bars or gussets are hurting you. My choice for seperator side on the rotor is the sweeps. They will not only help keep the tough straw flowing but they will also help prevent breaking up the brittle straw. I always like to break up the straw as little as possible for best separation. I've never used F2 concave rasp bars but I have used old flat cylinder bars like out of an old 503 IH. I rarely have enough loss to monkey with this but I have fastened them bars to seperator grate area and I have cut them to fit inbetween the helicals on the removable door. These old flat rasp bars do not seem to take any power plus they don't seem to break up the straw. As far as reverse bars we never us them anymore. If you were to install any I would only install one in any one spinning location. You can install reverse bars anytime quickly even if you have installed some home made sweeps. I told Rolf to just copy picture of sweeps as he wishes because it cost JR a bundle to have them shipped to Australia. Your R50 is an early one and it takes a unique sweep as compared to later machines. I don't know what pitch my sweeps are. I tried to keep distance between sweeper irons wide enough for corn cobs and still sweep the total width of removed cylinder bars. The backside of helicals help prevent material from moving over any faster than the pitch of helical. Sweep iron runs at same diameter as the cylinder bars. A guy may be able to reduce pitch of sweep irons as Rolf suggests but I'll let him check that out. I hope you find something hear usefull.