Combines Separator Clutch problems

tbran

Guest
yup, I usually take the cover off and put it in a safe place so I can put it back on later ;-). Safety is an issue but if you are in here with it running...duh... anyway there is a lock on the outside and it sticks in the notches-loosen it and take the keeper off and lay it on the drive tie lug - then take a punch and hammer and turn the notched ring OUT or COUNTER ClOCK WISE about 4 notches. Then retry. In the cab you should feel a "clunk" when it snaps in. If one is limber necked (as opposed to red necked) one can visually inspect the lining left when the clutch is disengaged. It must not be warped either. Pretty good instructions in the op manual here as well. After you get in the cab and are running it usually dawns on you that you didn't put the lock ring back on and the tire has planted it for you.. Dealers sell quite a few of these items a year for this reason...
 

77K2

Guest
tbran, How hard is it to rebuild a separator clutchIJ Got any pointers for a novice, as I sure can use them. Thanks,
 

tbran

Guest
not bad. Remove the fork, unscrew the bolt from the main clutch shaft, remove the safety cover, remove the row of bolts from the clutch plate, and pull 'er off. With a pocket screwdriver wrestle off the thin snap rings from the pins. After you put a few bandaids and antiseptic onthe puncture wounds ":) jsut pull the pressure plate off. At this time it is good to unscrew the adjusting ring and clean and apply never seize. Check for bad heat cracks - little ones don't matter - and assemble w_new 71302903. Adjust so as to have to step on it to snap in , then unsnap and reinstall... it will need adjustment quite often for the first few days. Keep it so it "snaps" in and always engage it quickly at low idle.
 
 
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