Combines seperator clutch not engaging

been awhile since our l-2 but we had the drive tabs sheer off on ours if I remember right. the cluth magnatized but would not drive( no drive tabs) not for sure now but you have to remove or move the reclean conveyor and start removing the unloader auger drive and other pulleysI think the unloader drive pulley is left handed threads also remember making a puller to pull the pulleys if you have a parts book it will help a lot. sorry I wasn't more help it really isn't too bad of a job just take it slow and be sure to remember how u took it off good luck Bob

On Gleaners, always check the simple things first! Engine stopped. Switch on. Engage clutch switch. A loud slap of the clutch magnet and the electrics are generally ok! If not then [ A good multimeter to check the electrics when there is a problem, is a must in the tool box.] using a multimeter, is there power to the clutch rotary contactIJ Isolating the rotary contact, does the rotary contact have any significant resistance or does power flow thru it okIJ Finally, does the clutch magnet have power thru it as wellIJ Checking all the above should only take a few minutes. The carbon contacts inside of the rotary contact were usually the source of troubles in this area as they wore out. I used the centre carbon from a flashlight battery to keep us going on a couple of occasions. If all the above checks out ok, its time to have a look at the clutch mechanicals! Good luck!

if you get power at both posts you have a bad ground!!! and if that is not the case dont remove the elevator to work on the clutch......i have never had an elevator off an l(2 or 3) series combine and have changed hundreds of clutches and other parts on the main shafts........vstk

with the engine not running and with key on and separtor switch on you should be able to pull the driven plate against the magnetic body by hand.be careful not to get pinched. if this works then you have to remove a shim from between armature plate and magnetic body.

I ended up sending her to the shop on a semi as I found a bearing out of the main drive clutch on the other side. I sure do appreciate the help from the folks on here as I did get some things back in working order. I discovered the magnet part of the clutch was broken into four parts could this have given me power on both ends of the wires on the seperator clutchIJ

You must be calling the piece without wires the magnet and no that shouldn't cause currant in both wires at clutch. But what you might of been seeing is some voltage in each wire and some test lights make it hard to tell if it is low or high volts. It wouldn't surprise me a whole lot to see a couple volts on the grounded side and a couple volts less than system voltage on positive side. The better the brushes and commutator the less drop. One volt don't alarm me but two volts starts to throw a red flag. This drop is imposible to check with machine running and drop will be worse than so you got to make best judgement call you can. Maybe have dealer check them terminals with his digital voltmeter if your worried about it.

THE electric clutches are very reliable and low maintance.usually only when a corn stalk or branch gets in their and knocks a wire do they give trouble.The electric clutch is isolated on the shaft therefor they run positive and ground wires through the rotary brush holder.It doesnt matter which way you put the wires on the two terminals on the elecric clutch.IT would only matter if it were pulling a magnet up against it.