Combines sepperater grate cover help

I don't believe your old cage covers will work properly for they will block alot of the openings in grate. Factory covers were mild steel held in with carriage bolts. They were designed to fit rigid seperator grate and plenty of modifing to fit adjustable grate. I had loewen build chrome ones with countersunk plow bolts to fit adjustable grate. The spacing of holes in these cover kits did not block off openings to seperator grate. Both brands of cover plates used long bolts that would go threw rectangle plates that stratled cross bars under seperator grate. With it being quite alot of work to remove wires, plug all holes created by removing wires, and bolting on plates we desided to raise existing wires. We pull approx every other wire and plug holes. We used to build all existing wires up with 3_8" rod but now we do just front half. Then we build up rear half with 1_4" wires. We desided to go with just 1_4" on rear half for we figure it would make grate more aggresive when tightening it up. Main thoughts there were to help tear up corn shucks if needed. The way we are modifing makes grate slightly less agresive than factory high wide grate and I believe it become more freindly to a wider selection of crops and condition. It surely stays clean all day long which promotes best seperation while utilizing centrifical force and gravity. I think I would give it a shot with your raised wires and forget about the covers. Good luck

Dan thanks for the info. It sounds like to me when you use the grate cover you want all the wirers out or do you just pull 1_2IJ I just wanted to have something ready if I am still having trouble with the milo. I used 3_8 rod over the whole grate hope this will work. We did put one set of your sweeps in and with the raised wires I am hoping that is all I need to stop the carrying over of the milo. If all wires need to be pulled the cover plate will be history. It sure is nice now when it takes 2 guys only 10 min. to change from one crop to another. I have cut the old cage up and most of the holes line up with the spacings on the grate(all but 2). If I have to use the cover and the one I made helps I will buy the factory one so all holes line up. Four hundred dollars is not much if it saves grain, but it is a lot if it don't! What should I start with for a setting on the sep. grate. Someone mentioned raise till you hear it tick then lower it some. Sure would be nice if it stop raining so I could sit in cab and not in the middle of the dusty combine.

Yes we had always had all wires removed when covers were installed. Don't know the guys in milo area that installed covers so can't tell you if they had wires all removed. Maybe someone will jump in hear if they have. I have certainly heard they reduced milo loss prior to freeze with covers. Covers on top of your raised wires will bring whole seperator grate closer to bars by 1_4" which may further reduce losses if it stays clear of plugging underneath it. I'm afraid you'll have to let us know for I don't know anyone in green milo with sweeps and covers. I'd be tempted to set seperator grate at cage diameter (9) and then adjust concave and cylinder speed for best job. Then adjust seperator grate two marks at a time for minimum loss. Could be a step ahead if you find number that grate touches cylinder before you get to threshing again. What do you have for threshing concavesIJ High wide throughoutIJ Any steep helicals on thresher side or just helical filler over feeder which prevents third helical from gearbox from dumping allready threshed crop back on concaveIJ Best of luck when you get going!!

Threshing concave is the high wide wireIJ Holes between wires 1 1_2 inches. Have concave rows blocked on first three rows. No steep hilicals just triangle. looks to me that the milo will be froze before I get to it, maybe ground too. I was running sep. grate on 2 last year. Thanks For Your Help